i need to know how to change thermostat 1994 chevy suburban... i heard its easy but i have never done it before, also wondering if anyone knows why my temp. gauge isnt working and what would make it work?? my car overheated today and i heard i should change the thermostat but i also would like to get the temp gauge working so i know next time there is a problem lol thanks in advance!|||http://www.ebookspdf.com/automotives/386鈥?/a>
There%26#039;s the full owner%26#039;s manual, it shows and tells you how to do it pretty much step by step :)
-omgyay_dotcom|||There could be a lot of reasons for OVERHEATING.
1st reason (Low fluid level)
2nd reason Thermostat isn%26#039;t working properly
3rd reason (Fluid needs to be replaced)
4th reason (water belt is loose)
5th reason (air compressor was aerating and getting air pockets )
6th reason (Air Fan doesn%26#039;t work properly)
Try to remove the thermostat and drive for few days and if everything will be okay than just replace the thermostat with new one.
You can get thermostat from any parts store or on ebay.
Gauge needs to be fixed too, check the fuses. |||it is very easy. just two bolts. what you will do is basically fallow the upper radiator hose too a little metal piece comming off of the front of your block. take this off and the thermostat is sitting inside there REMEMBER WICH WAY IT IS SITTING SO YOU DONT PUT IT IN BACKWARDS!! LOL(most likely the front) before youe take this out though take the radiator cap off just to relieve pressure in the system if there is any. and colant will spill out obliviously so get something to catch it. and your gauge is most likely not working because your ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor is not working. this also can cause your engine not to run to its peak performance. some cars have two ect%26#039;s and some have one: one to control a gauge, and one for an input for the computer. but that is just a hunch at what could be the prob. good luck hope this helps|||Can we assume its a 350 %26quot;V8%26quot;..the Thermostat can be found at the opposite end of the %26quot;Top Radiator Hose looking from the radiator, in other words where the radiator hose hooks to the engine. Its a Aluminum adapter plate with two machine bolts. You remove those two bolts after you have removed the hose and you will find the thermostat. Notice how its mounted in there..and replace with a new one with a new gasket.
The Temperature gauge sensor will be on the right side as you face the engine, near the first spark plug. It looks like a brass plug with a wire connected to the center of it...
Both parts are very easy to replace.
Friday, June 3, 2011
Does changing the thermostat often affect your electricity bill?
Most likely will.Leave it at 78 and don%26#039;t touch it and you will save much cash.|||It could, if you install a programmable one and set it to go a couple of degrees higher or lower for when you need it. Setting the thermostat too low will make your furnace work to hard to bring the temperature up to what you want it to be, when you need it.|||Absolutely, sort of... When you come in after work and it is 80 inside. You turn the a/c down to 50 in hopes to get it really cold, really fast. Pretty soon you are getting chilly and look over and a/c says its 68. So you kick it back up to about 72 to stay comfortable. You have just wasted a lot of energy and life of the a/c. Even though four degrees does not seem like a lot, it is in energy measurements. Long story short, turning the a/c down past a comfortable temperature (71) will not cause the unit to cool any faster than turning it to a comfortable temperature (71) in the first place. Thus said, putting it on a comfortable temperature (71) in the first place you will not over cool the house by forgetting to turn it back up when you are cool. When you forget to change the thermostat back is when you pay more on your bill. Good luck...
I have a 2000 vw bug and i need help in changing the thermostat or the water pump?
i need the location of the water pump or for the thermostat thank you|||The water pump is timing belt driven and is under the plastic timing cover on passenger side. These water pumps have a history of breaking, due to the fact they have a plastic impeller and it shears off the shaft, which causes the engine to overheat. First you want to remove the thermostat and then check the water pump. Follow the lower radiator hose to where it connects to the engine. That flange is where the thermostat is at. After you remove the thermostat you can shine a light in the hole and put your finger in there, if the impellar of the water pump moves, it needs to be replaced. If it does, then you might as well replace the timing belt and tensioner, seeing how you have to remove it to get the water pump off.
Changing the thermostat on a 1999 Volkswagen new beetle?
bs i have a new volkswagen you can work on them fine and if you dont have the tool go to the store and buy it.
basicly follow the top tube on the radiator to the engine or sometimes plastic tube on the engine.
the piece that bolts to the engine is where the thermostat is all you will need to do is un bolt it and change the thermostat but make sure you put it in in the right direction. rebolt the tube assembly back on. and put some more coolant in if you lost some.
i own a 2001 glx passat 5 speed|||Unless u r a mechanic you wont be able to work on a VW, the newer ones require special tools, take it to a dealership|||ziggy is right, you follow the hose that comes off the very top of the rad (usually top left corner) all the way to the engine and it%26#039;d most likely be 2 bolts into the engine block. You loosen it and there should be your thermostat(it%26#039;s not bolted to anything you can just take it out), slip the new one in and voala. All you%26#039;ll need is probably like 1/2%26quot; drive or something.
basicly follow the top tube on the radiator to the engine or sometimes plastic tube on the engine.
the piece that bolts to the engine is where the thermostat is all you will need to do is un bolt it and change the thermostat but make sure you put it in in the right direction. rebolt the tube assembly back on. and put some more coolant in if you lost some.
i own a 2001 glx passat 5 speed|||Unless u r a mechanic you wont be able to work on a VW, the newer ones require special tools, take it to a dealership|||ziggy is right, you follow the hose that comes off the very top of the rad (usually top left corner) all the way to the engine and it%26#039;d most likely be 2 bolts into the engine block. You loosen it and there should be your thermostat(it%26#039;s not bolted to anything you can just take it out), slip the new one in and voala. All you%26#039;ll need is probably like 1/2%26quot; drive or something.
Where is the thermostat in a 1992 Buick Riviera?
my mother%26#039;s car keeps overheating and she bought a new thermostat. she has changed thermostats in other cars, but cannot find it in our 1992 Buick Riviera. PLEASE HELP!!!!!|||Are you sure that it is the thermostat that is causing the overheating.|||it is usually on the engine right where the coolant hose enters the engine. its inside a bubble looking metal pipe the rubber hose attaches to|||i think, but im not positive, its on the intake manifold by the throttle body...im not sure though...good luck!|||follow the top rad. hose
I have a 2003 nissan xterra which is overheating. I've tried changing the thermostat but thats not the problem
what could be the problem?|||Several thing can cause overheating.
The Fan belt may be loose
The water pump may be leaking
The radiator may be clogged (unlikely but possible)
The timeing may be off
Blown head gaskets
Clogged exhaust|||NEVER replace any part till you know the problem. Open the hood and with the engine at operating temp. see if the fan or fans are running. If not check the coolant temp. sensor located where the top radiator hose connects to the engine, where you put the thermostat. Turn on the a/c and the fan should start. If so you will know the fan and relay are ok. If fan is ok you probably have a radiator partly plugged. Go to a RAdIATOR shop, not an auto repair, and have them check it out. Stay away from dealers.|||how do you know it%26#039;s overheating?
does the temp gauge rise into the red or does the coolant boil?
is that the 3.3L? or the 4cyl both have fan clutches on them.
does the engine take a few minutes to overheat? or does it take a hot day and 2 hours of driving to overheat? when you changed the thermostat, did you bleed the cooling system correctly?
there is a bleed/fill screw towards the left(drivers) rear of the intake manifold that should be removed when filling the c-system (on the 6cyl.)
oh yeah, and the area between the condenser and the radiator has a good chance to accumulate dirt and debris and should be checked.
need more info from the customer.|||this can alsoo be the water pump going bad on it,the fins on it that circulate the water will wear out,and the pump wont leak any ,it just wont pump water good,it can also be a radiator getting stopped up on it,the get clogged up in the bottom,and wont let the coolant go through it real good,this causes the vehicle to run hot,id check those things out,,it will probably turn out to be one of them,als check the cooling fan on it,good luck with it.
The Fan belt may be loose
The water pump may be leaking
The radiator may be clogged (unlikely but possible)
The timeing may be off
Blown head gaskets
Clogged exhaust|||NEVER replace any part till you know the problem. Open the hood and with the engine at operating temp. see if the fan or fans are running. If not check the coolant temp. sensor located where the top radiator hose connects to the engine, where you put the thermostat. Turn on the a/c and the fan should start. If so you will know the fan and relay are ok. If fan is ok you probably have a radiator partly plugged. Go to a RAdIATOR shop, not an auto repair, and have them check it out. Stay away from dealers.|||how do you know it%26#039;s overheating?
does the temp gauge rise into the red or does the coolant boil?
is that the 3.3L? or the 4cyl both have fan clutches on them.
does the engine take a few minutes to overheat? or does it take a hot day and 2 hours of driving to overheat? when you changed the thermostat, did you bleed the cooling system correctly?
there is a bleed/fill screw towards the left(drivers) rear of the intake manifold that should be removed when filling the c-system (on the 6cyl.)
oh yeah, and the area between the condenser and the radiator has a good chance to accumulate dirt and debris and should be checked.
need more info from the customer.|||this can alsoo be the water pump going bad on it,the fins on it that circulate the water will wear out,and the pump wont leak any ,it just wont pump water good,it can also be a radiator getting stopped up on it,the get clogged up in the bottom,and wont let the coolant go through it real good,this causes the vehicle to run hot,id check those things out,,it will probably turn out to be one of them,als check the cooling fan on it,good luck with it.
If the radiator cap does not fit properly on the thermostat housing will that cause pressure buildup.?
changed thermostat housing and radiator cap recently and finding that pressure is being released and water is bubbling in resevoir. one mechanic is saying head gasket and other mechanic says thermostat housing is not the right part causing pressure to escape from radiator cap. which mechanic is right?|||The reason why water does not boil in a radiator is the pressure kept by the system. IF the cap leaks there is no pressure allowing the water to boil. The easiest way to fix that is get the right cap and housing that do not leak. That being said aa blown head gasket can allow exhaust into the cooling system causing similar problem however this is a much more expensive fix.I would start with the cap.If the cap doesnt fix the problem have the mechanic use a device that %26quot;sniffs%26quot; for exhaust gas around the radiator cap with it off and the engine running.Be there when this is done so you know for sure.|||both previous answers r right on,|||Could be something simple like air in rad. If it was head gasket it would volcano out of reservoir after revving the engine|||OK is the Housing you Replaced the Correct Part Number for that Engine? With the Radiator cap off and the Engine, do you Smell Exhaust in the Radiator (Head Gasket)? Why did you Replace the Housing %26amp; is the %26quot;New Thermostat%26quot; Installed Correctly? is you %26quot;Coolant Mixture (50-50 Clean Water %26amp; Anti-Freeze used year round) Correct?
How to change thermostat on 2001 chevy malibu?
my car has been getting hot and everyone is telling me its the thermostat cause i all ready flushed it and put coolant in it and it still getting hot. so how do i change the thermostat and is it something i can do myself|||Relatively easy to do. First, get a replacement thermostat at auto parts store (make sure they double check the stock #; they all look similar and you want the right one the 1st time). Get some coolant too, if there%26#039;s none left from the flush. Follow the radiator hose (large black hose on top of radiator) from the rad. to the engine block; where the hose connects to the block is where the thermo. is...usually 2 bolts to hold it in place. Be sure to look at instructions because the thermo. has to be installed the correct way facing up. Swap thermo, replace hose, add coolant if needed %26amp; good to go
Changing a thermostat on a '95 Ford Ranger...read details please?
I took my truck to a shop to have the thermostat changed. 2.3L 4 cylinder, A/C, 5 speed 2 wheel drive. At first he told me it would take an hour and cost 55 bucks but when he tore into it, he said it was more involved. He showed me the book which said it should take 2.5 hours if there was a certain obstruction which there was. Well it took him 5 hours. At first he put the thermostat on wrong then had to tear it up and start over. He did get a new gasket for it though. My question is, does this guy know what he%26#039;s doing? This place is an actual shop that sells tires and does mechanical work. I%26#039;m driving this truck 1000 miles one way next week for vacation and just wanna know if I need to worry. What signs do I need to look for if he didn%26#039;t put it in right? And....5 hours for real? Oh yeah, he only charged me 80 bucks so he didn%26#039;t rip me off labor wise. Thanks.|||i agree with the above answer|||He cannot charge over 2.5 hours--his screw up is his problem--should have gone to a FORD dealer. if it isn%26#039;t overheating by now--it is fine. Go for a half hour ride and see the gauge--make yourself happy before your trip.
Thermostat?
when changing a thermostat do you have to drain the coolant? And if so do you just unclamp the bottom horse of the radiator? thanks|||You can either unclamp a hose that is lower then where the thermostat is or let the fluid drain from the little spout in the bottom of the radiator. Make sure you dispose of the fluid properly (NOT ON YOUR LAWN OR IN THE SEWER DRAIN) cause it kills dogs.|||idk|||If your car is completely cooled down and not under pressure, you can just switch it out like that. There is no need to have remove any radiator fluid to change your thermostat since your thermostat is at the highest point in the system. Just don%26#039;t change the thermostat while your cooling system is under pressure. Its a good idea to change your rad fluid as a preventative maintenance thing though.|||Depending on the year and make of your car, You might not have to. A lot of the newer models do not require a gasket sealant and some don%26#039;t even reqiure a seprate gasket.
As long as you can achieve a clean dry sealing surface, you should be golden.|||yes you do have to drain the coolant.
instead of unclamping the hose, on the bottom inside portion of the radiator there is a small petcock that you turn to drain the radiator.
drain it into a pan so you can put it back in. if you pull the hose you%26#039;ll probably lose a lot.
car overheating? i assume so, or else why would you want to replace the thermostat.|||You don%26#039;t have to drain it. You%26#039;ll get some fluid when you loosen the top radiator hose, but you%26#039;ll only lose a portion of it. Make sure the car is cooled off proprerly before you touch anyhting. If you do need to remove coolant there shoud be a petcock on the raiator you can open, but it may be plugged. If so you may have to remove the bottom hose.|||I wouldn%26#039;t recommend doing that. Take your radiator cap off first then locate your radiator `pet-cock%26#039; near the bottom of the radiator and turn it counterclockwise[with a pan under it]
Drain a couple of qts out of it then tighten it back up.
replace your thermostat [read directions] and refilll the radiator.|||Some cars have a petcock on the bottom of the radiator that will allow you to drain some fluid out. On others, you have to loosen the bottom hose and drain some out.
It is not necessary to drain it all out, normally, just a gallon or two will lower the level enough to replace the thermostat. Put a bucket underneath and then you can reuse the fluid. If the fluid is over 2 years old, then it would be a good time to replace it with fresh coolant.
good luck.|||assuming its on the top and not the bottom of the motor ,
drain just enough to lower the level under
where the thermstat is.
best way to drain is unscrew the value on the botton of the radiator... its looks like a T top on a screw.. with a hole in the middle.. twist it til fluid comes out..
make sure you clean both sides of the cup where the new therm goes.. use a gasket with just enough paste to hole it in place.. too much and its a mess to get off next time|||yes, you have to drain the coolant. yes unclamping and disconecting the lower radiator hose is usually the easiest. There is usually some left in the engine so when you take the thermostat housing off it%26#039;ll make a mess, at least it does when I do it, so make sure you can get it cleaned up as quickly as possible so any animals don%26#039;t get into it and before it can soak into the ground. Antifreeze is deadly if ingested.|||Usually there%26#039;s a drain on the bottom of the radiator. You can just drain it about half way, but it%26#039;s cheaper in the long run to drain it all and put in new when you%26#039;re done. When you%26#039;re done, make sure you let it idle with the cap off %26#039;till you see the coolant flowing, then fill it and fill to the line in the overflow tank, then put the cap on and turn off the motor.|||You should change your coolant when changing the thermostat. It could be one of the reasons the thermostat went bad anyway. It is recommended that you change your coolant every 1-2 yrs unless it is high mileage coolant. After a period of time the coolant can become highly acidic and eat up engine parts causing engine failure..... and yes dispose of it properly it will kill any animals. You can drain it through the petcock on the bottom of the radiator or remove the lower hose when the engine is cool.|||Be sure to find out if your vehicle has a coolant bleeder bolt.
If it does take it out when refilling so you don%26#039;t get an air pocket in there that will cause trouble.Good luck.
As long as you can achieve a clean dry sealing surface, you should be golden.|||yes you do have to drain the coolant.
instead of unclamping the hose, on the bottom inside portion of the radiator there is a small petcock that you turn to drain the radiator.
drain it into a pan so you can put it back in. if you pull the hose you%26#039;ll probably lose a lot.
car overheating? i assume so, or else why would you want to replace the thermostat.|||You don%26#039;t have to drain it. You%26#039;ll get some fluid when you loosen the top radiator hose, but you%26#039;ll only lose a portion of it. Make sure the car is cooled off proprerly before you touch anyhting. If you do need to remove coolant there shoud be a petcock on the raiator you can open, but it may be plugged. If so you may have to remove the bottom hose.|||I wouldn%26#039;t recommend doing that. Take your radiator cap off first then locate your radiator `pet-cock%26#039; near the bottom of the radiator and turn it counterclockwise[with a pan under it]
Drain a couple of qts out of it then tighten it back up.
replace your thermostat [read directions] and refilll the radiator.|||Some cars have a petcock on the bottom of the radiator that will allow you to drain some fluid out. On others, you have to loosen the bottom hose and drain some out.
It is not necessary to drain it all out, normally, just a gallon or two will lower the level enough to replace the thermostat. Put a bucket underneath and then you can reuse the fluid. If the fluid is over 2 years old, then it would be a good time to replace it with fresh coolant.
good luck.|||assuming its on the top and not the bottom of the motor ,
drain just enough to lower the level under
where the thermstat is.
best way to drain is unscrew the value on the botton of the radiator... its looks like a T top on a screw.. with a hole in the middle.. twist it til fluid comes out..
make sure you clean both sides of the cup where the new therm goes.. use a gasket with just enough paste to hole it in place.. too much and its a mess to get off next time|||yes, you have to drain the coolant. yes unclamping and disconecting the lower radiator hose is usually the easiest. There is usually some left in the engine so when you take the thermostat housing off it%26#039;ll make a mess, at least it does when I do it, so make sure you can get it cleaned up as quickly as possible so any animals don%26#039;t get into it and before it can soak into the ground. Antifreeze is deadly if ingested.|||Usually there%26#039;s a drain on the bottom of the radiator. You can just drain it about half way, but it%26#039;s cheaper in the long run to drain it all and put in new when you%26#039;re done. When you%26#039;re done, make sure you let it idle with the cap off %26#039;till you see the coolant flowing, then fill it and fill to the line in the overflow tank, then put the cap on and turn off the motor.|||You should change your coolant when changing the thermostat. It could be one of the reasons the thermostat went bad anyway. It is recommended that you change your coolant every 1-2 yrs unless it is high mileage coolant. After a period of time the coolant can become highly acidic and eat up engine parts causing engine failure..... and yes dispose of it properly it will kill any animals. You can drain it through the petcock on the bottom of the radiator or remove the lower hose when the engine is cool.|||Be sure to find out if your vehicle has a coolant bleeder bolt.
If it does take it out when refilling so you don%26#039;t get an air pocket in there that will cause trouble.Good luck.
Where is the thermostat on a 04 mustang located.?
I%26#039;m traveling from Atlanta to Albany and my vehicle is running hot. My reservoir is still full so I assumed that the thermostat is inop, and I need to change it. I%26#039;ve changed thermostats in GM vehicles but never worked on any ford vehicles.|||The thermostat is in the same place, where the top rad. hose connects to the engine. If you would remove your radiator cap, with a cold engine, and idle the engine till up to operating temp. you can look in the opening and see the circulation. I would have a RADIATOR SHOP check it before I did any more. NEVER replace any part till you know the problem.
I was changing the thermostat on my 300zx when it was all done it wouldn't start?WTF!!?
well you must be pretty dumb to screw it up just from changing the thermostat|||check the connectors on the PTU
How do you change thermostat on a 1993 acura legend?
Car is a 1993 Legend L. New radiator, but before heat comes out of vents the temp needle goes all the way to Hot and then the Tstat opens and heat bellows from the vents. Heat is maintained unless I come to a stop in which case the needle goes back up to Hot and the tstat opens again.
Is this a basic bad tstat problem?|||i own a repair shop,and yes it could be a bad thermostat,,and also a bad cooling fan causing some of this to happen but he thermostat is located in the housing at the end of the top of the radiator hose on it,,there%26#039;s a housing there ,and its behind that housing,,you,ll have to drain some of the coolant out of it or it will gush out on you ,,then remove the housing ,and clean off all the old gasket,and replace the thermostat ,don%26#039;t over tighten the bolts up on these ,,the brake the housings real easy,,re-fill the system and that should be it,,start it,and make sure there are no leaks in it,,good luck,i hope this help,s|||it could be a bad thermostat or it could be that your fan isnt working.also flush out the cooling system.|||Find out if your coolant is full. If you have a leak somewhere then air pockets form and tend to get trapped espically in the heater core. If it is full then you could replace the t-stat with a high probability of success.
Is this a basic bad tstat problem?|||i own a repair shop,and yes it could be a bad thermostat,,and also a bad cooling fan causing some of this to happen but he thermostat is located in the housing at the end of the top of the radiator hose on it,,there%26#039;s a housing there ,and its behind that housing,,you,ll have to drain some of the coolant out of it or it will gush out on you ,,then remove the housing ,and clean off all the old gasket,and replace the thermostat ,don%26#039;t over tighten the bolts up on these ,,the brake the housings real easy,,re-fill the system and that should be it,,start it,and make sure there are no leaks in it,,good luck,i hope this help,s|||it could be a bad thermostat or it could be that your fan isnt working.also flush out the cooling system.|||Find out if your coolant is full. If you have a leak somewhere then air pockets form and tend to get trapped espically in the heater core. If it is full then you could replace the t-stat with a high probability of success.
Does anyone know how to change thermostat and sparks plugs on 04 Chevy Trailblazer?
I am currently having engine problems and i really dont know what is causing it. I am getting a code p0128 and they tell me that it could be the tstat or the spark plugs. Can some one please help? the car turns off everytime i go on reverse and when driving it looses power.|||You can read the coolant temperature in the dash. It should be between 195 - 205 when the motor has warmed up. The thermostat is a %26quot;bear%26quot; to get to on the 5.3 motor as it%26#039;s on the right side 3/4 of the way down near the fan shroud. The 4.3 thermostat is in the normal location. AC-Delco iridium spark plugs and * AC-Delco ignition wires should go on the vehicle at no more than 75,000 miles.
If the motor is loosing power at highway speeds one of the 6 or 8 ignition coils (you didn%26#039;t say which motor you had) may be at fault. Take it to a Chevrolet dealer an let them scan your on-board computer to find the real fault of your problem. Don%26#039;t use off-shore box-store ignition parts on a GM product.|||go to autozone.com and registar your car they have an illustrated free directions for doing the job. the spark plugs dont know or care if your in reverse or park. the thermostat doesnt either but the temp cpuld be being affected by the other issue. if the engine runs fine at idle in park but stall imediately when put in gear the problem could be #1 a bad nutral safety switch, #2 a vacuum leak, #3 the tps throttle possition sensor is acting up and loosing its signal the autozone sight will give you what that code is as well. please note the code isnt a direct pointer to the problem it gives a general system that is acting up
If the motor is loosing power at highway speeds one of the 6 or 8 ignition coils (you didn%26#039;t say which motor you had) may be at fault. Take it to a Chevrolet dealer an let them scan your on-board computer to find the real fault of your problem. Don%26#039;t use off-shore box-store ignition parts on a GM product.|||go to autozone.com and registar your car they have an illustrated free directions for doing the job. the spark plugs dont know or care if your in reverse or park. the thermostat doesnt either but the temp cpuld be being affected by the other issue. if the engine runs fine at idle in park but stall imediately when put in gear the problem could be #1 a bad nutral safety switch, #2 a vacuum leak, #3 the tps throttle possition sensor is acting up and loosing its signal the autozone sight will give you what that code is as well. please note the code isnt a direct pointer to the problem it gives a general system that is acting up
How to check if Honeywell V8043E1012 value is working. I first changed thermostat and still no heat.?
I then traced the wiring but I%26#039;m not too sure if all the wiring is bad or that perhaps the value itself has shorted out. I am still able to manually open it and get heat while the other zones are on.
Is there a simple way to test the value without pulling down all the wiring ?????
Any and all suggestions are welcome|||You need to find the two leads coming from the valves coil. Using a voltmeter, check for 24V across the leads. If voltage is present and the valve does not open, its bad. If you do not get 24V and the thermostat is sending it, you have an open wire between the stat and valve. Could also be an open common usually jumped valve to valve.
Is there a simple way to test the value without pulling down all the wiring ?????
Any and all suggestions are welcome|||You need to find the two leads coming from the valves coil. Using a voltmeter, check for 24V across the leads. If voltage is present and the valve does not open, its bad. If you do not get 24V and the thermostat is sending it, you have an open wire between the stat and valve. Could also be an open common usually jumped valve to valve.
My furnace doesn't turn on even when the setting falls below what is on the thermostat.?
This doesn%26#039;t occur all the time, but occurs more often when it is very cold outside. For example, if I have it set at 71, the temperature in the house often falls into the 60%26#039;s overnight. In the morning I must manually lower and then raise the thermostat in order to get the furnace to kick on. I have changed thermostats, so I know it isn%26#039;t the problem.|||here is a link to troubleshooting a gas furnace. http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-rep鈥?/a> if the unit had not been serviced in a while, consider getting it done|||Have you checked the safety cutout switch that is activated when you remove covers to clean the filter? If you don%26#039;t get the cover(s) back on properly the cutout switch might be the problem.
However, the characteristic of working by manually lowering and then raising the thermostat does not fit this very well. That kind of sounds like you could have a relay contact in the furnace control that is faulty.|||It sounds like the unit is locking out and you are reseting it. Before you reset it go to the unit and look at the red light. Count the flashes and then check the chart to see what the possible causes are. Then you can check out the troubleshooting guide on the furnace page at my source to narrow it down.|||It does sound like the thermostat system is faulty. Make sure the thermostat you installed is compatible to your heating system. Cheapest does not mean it works all the time. If it is, you may want to try loosening the thermostat wires at the furnace and re-tighten them. Also make sure thermostat wiring is not making connection with other wires or metal casings. (inside the thermostat too)|||He already said he changed the thermostat. Its most likey a bad thermocouple.|||two possible things..bad thermostat or thermo senser...or a bad regulater that tells the furnace to come on or go off...is this a gas or electric ???|||If it has a little mercury switch inside it, the thermostat needs to be leveled when installed on the wall, or this exact result can happen.
It could also be the relay switch on the furnace itself, not getting the signal from the thermostat.|||Sometimes this can be caused by a bad splice in the thermostat wiring. If you have an ohmmeter, you could disconnect at both ends, twist together at one end, then measure the resistance at the other. It should be very close to zero.|||If this ONLY happens at night, your pressure switch inside the unit could be faulty. This is the switch that monitors the exhaust motor to come on and of. If there is a dramatic difference in humidity outside, from day to night, moisture settles in this switch from the exhaust vent pipe through th attic and/or basement. Relatively easy repair. Find a local hvac supply dealer that carries your brand of furnace. Tell him the model and serial number, and he can give you a direct replacement and tips to install. Takes 2 min. Good luck.|||On most units:
1. On the blower panel there should be round plastic glass, you should be able to peer through and see the LED flashing if the LED is off it could mean that there is no power.
2. Count the flashes.
3. Remove the blower panel and on the inside of the panel you should find a sticker with the fault codes.
4. This will tell you what%26#039;s happening in most cases if it%26#039;s furnace related, It will not tell you how to repair it but sometimes will let you know if it%26#039;s a circuit board problem.
However, the characteristic of working by manually lowering and then raising the thermostat does not fit this very well. That kind of sounds like you could have a relay contact in the furnace control that is faulty.|||It sounds like the unit is locking out and you are reseting it. Before you reset it go to the unit and look at the red light. Count the flashes and then check the chart to see what the possible causes are. Then you can check out the troubleshooting guide on the furnace page at my source to narrow it down.|||It does sound like the thermostat system is faulty. Make sure the thermostat you installed is compatible to your heating system. Cheapest does not mean it works all the time. If it is, you may want to try loosening the thermostat wires at the furnace and re-tighten them. Also make sure thermostat wiring is not making connection with other wires or metal casings. (inside the thermostat too)|||He already said he changed the thermostat. Its most likey a bad thermocouple.|||two possible things..bad thermostat or thermo senser...or a bad regulater that tells the furnace to come on or go off...is this a gas or electric ???|||If it has a little mercury switch inside it, the thermostat needs to be leveled when installed on the wall, or this exact result can happen.
It could also be the relay switch on the furnace itself, not getting the signal from the thermostat.|||Sometimes this can be caused by a bad splice in the thermostat wiring. If you have an ohmmeter, you could disconnect at both ends, twist together at one end, then measure the resistance at the other. It should be very close to zero.|||If this ONLY happens at night, your pressure switch inside the unit could be faulty. This is the switch that monitors the exhaust motor to come on and of. If there is a dramatic difference in humidity outside, from day to night, moisture settles in this switch from the exhaust vent pipe through th attic and/or basement. Relatively easy repair. Find a local hvac supply dealer that carries your brand of furnace. Tell him the model and serial number, and he can give you a direct replacement and tips to install. Takes 2 min. Good luck.|||On most units:
1. On the blower panel there should be round plastic glass, you should be able to peer through and see the LED flashing if the LED is off it could mean that there is no power.
2. Count the flashes.
3. Remove the blower panel and on the inside of the panel you should find a sticker with the fault codes.
4. This will tell you what%26#039;s happening in most cases if it%26#039;s furnace related, It will not tell you how to repair it but sometimes will let you know if it%26#039;s a circuit board problem.
Changing thermostat on 2000 Pontiac Montana- 3.4 L?
whats the proper way - remove throttle plate or exhaust crossover pipe???????|||Follow the top radiator hose towards the engine untill you reach a curved metal housing with a bleeder screw on it.Unbolt the two bolts replace the thermostat and gasket and bolt it back together.Then with the car running open up the bleeder screw on the top of the vavle untill you have coolant leaking out to bleed out the air in the system, and you should be good.If you do not have a bleeder screw on the housing , than with the engine off and cool,(do not open if car has been running) open the radiator cap and turn on the engine and let it burp/vent its self out.GL|||I am not familiar with the 3.4 liter but all the engines I know have the thermostat at the top of the engine, under the radiator hose housing. Remove two bolts and there it is!
Is there an easy way to check/change thermostat on Astra?
Astra 1.4 %26quot;N%26quot; reg. Heater works fine at low speeds (30-40mph)
after that it goes cold. I think I may need to change the
thermostat and wonder if there is an easy way to do this or
could there be another reason for this problem.
Help appreciated. Bill|||It does indeed sound like your stat is jammed open. So long as you%26#039;re not losing water, that is.
If you can%26#039;t get around to changing it (what with it being f-f-f-freezing at the moment, try blanking off the bottom half of the rad with tinfoil (just like everyone did in winter in the 60%26#039;s and 70%26#039;s) to raise the temperature a bit.
A good double check, is to see if your oil filler cap is covered in %26quot;mayonnaise%26quot; on the inside. If it is, the engine%26#039;s being overcooled and not getting hot enough to drive off any condensation.|||its not your stat, sounds more like a vent prob, make shore controls on recirculate, the curled arrow,|||mmm, they work, or dont work, speed doesnt matter...
sounds like its jammed open, so its not heating up properly, or the header bottle is empty...
thermostat housing is at teh end of the top rad hose... and do it cold, or youll scald yourself... and doht forget to change the gasket.|||No easy way to change the stat. Being an %26#039;N%26#039; reg could be the water pump on its way out. As the belt turns the pump quicker it is not coping.
after that it goes cold. I think I may need to change the
thermostat and wonder if there is an easy way to do this or
could there be another reason for this problem.
Help appreciated. Bill|||It does indeed sound like your stat is jammed open. So long as you%26#039;re not losing water, that is.
If you can%26#039;t get around to changing it (what with it being f-f-f-freezing at the moment, try blanking off the bottom half of the rad with tinfoil (just like everyone did in winter in the 60%26#039;s and 70%26#039;s) to raise the temperature a bit.
A good double check, is to see if your oil filler cap is covered in %26quot;mayonnaise%26quot; on the inside. If it is, the engine%26#039;s being overcooled and not getting hot enough to drive off any condensation.|||its not your stat, sounds more like a vent prob, make shore controls on recirculate, the curled arrow,|||mmm, they work, or dont work, speed doesnt matter...
sounds like its jammed open, so its not heating up properly, or the header bottle is empty...
thermostat housing is at teh end of the top rad hose... and do it cold, or youll scald yourself... and doht forget to change the gasket.|||No easy way to change the stat. Being an %26#039;N%26#039; reg could be the water pump on its way out. As the belt turns the pump quicker it is not coping.
Changing the thermostat in my 97 pontiac grand am se 2.4l?
i pulled off the upper hose off the engine and no thermostat. so it is in another place is it easy to change and can i do it. and where abouts is it. any help would be a life saver. thank you|||The Thermostat is located at the end of your intake manifold. You will see a large %26quot;J%26quot; shaped pipe coming into the thermostat housing at the bottom. The housing also has 2 smaller hoses coming out the top and the side (and another large, short hose on the other side) 2 Bolts hold in the housing|||Yes, so you just pull the upper hose. I guess pulling the upper hose%26#039;s simply the law of the land
2005 Dodge Neon keeps overheating even after changing thermostat?
One day my car started overheating and the heat stopped working. Did a check online and figured it was my thermostat. Changed thermostat but its still doing the exact same thing.
Did a thermostat check in boiling water and it works
Water pump does not appear to be leaking or making any unusual noises
Car runs fine, other than overheating and no heat
Drained radiator for the first time in 4 years today. Color was orangish red (not sure what the original antifreeze color was). Very small amount came out, just drops in fact. I%26#039;ve never noticed any external coolant leaks.
Refilled it with water, ran for a few minutes, saw no leaks, drained again and it all came out. Top and bottom radiator hoses are both hot when engine is hot.
After refilling radiator with water, did a bleeding technique by running car on moderate incline with radiator cap off, saw lots of air bubbles for several minutes (looking into thermostat housing where radiator cap leads to). Not sure how long I should have let it run but I did it for about 4 or 5 minutes, then got impatient waiting for the bubbles to cease (seemed like it should have been done bubbling but Ive never done this before)
Water comes out of exhaust pipes but only occassionally, chalking it up to condensation. Did notice a VERY VERY TINY amount of white smoke today, but it went away and I chalked it up to it being about 40 or so degrees out today. Hopefully just steam.
Oil looks fine, no milky white or bubbly look to it at all.
Coolant resovoir does not smell like exhaust, nor does it bubble to my knowledge.
I noticed when I popped radiator cap off I had some reddish orange grime built up on it and a little on the inside of the thermostat housing.
I%26#039;ve done all of these checks and spent the last week trying to figure it out on my own. I am now resorting to help from others ;-) It%26#039;s still doing the exact same thing. It doesn%26#039;t really get too hot if I%26#039;m just idling, its when I start driving that it shoots up. It takes about 5-8 minutes for it to get close enough to the red to make me shut it off. The temp has been between 20 and 40 degrees here since this has happened.
-----
I would really appreciate any help. I am at my wits end trying to figure this out. I go from thinking its compression problems, to the thermostat, to the water pump, to a hose leak, to a head gasket....I can%26#039;t figure it out. I don%26#039;t have a lot of money. I do have a 7 year powertrain warranty but have no idea if this kind of stuff is covered in it, and I%26#039;m nervous to take it to the dealer because I don%26#039;t have insurance and I have had some late payments in the recent past.|||Get as much resource as you can maybe is one option,however it could be quite time consuming,here
http://www.AutoInsuranceFree.info
is one resource i have had good experience.|||LOL, this is the best answer?
Sorry, but this seems like spam, but I appreciate your input.
It turned out to be just air pockets in my cooling system. After doing a proper bleeding technique I was able to fix the problem. Car runs great now! Thanks to all who replied!
|||Call up the dealership and have the vehicle towed and fixed under the warranty that you payed for.|||i think when you was installing the thermostat in it you might have cracked the housing or the intake on it,you need to check this because that will make it run hot on you and also make it loose coolant,you wont hear a head gasket making any noise on it,you,ll only notice a slight amount of smoke or steam from it ,you could have got a bad thermostat or that one is gone bad ,run a compression check on the engine and that will tell you if its got a blown head gasket or not on it without tearing the engine apart,the thermostat doesn%26#039;t have anything to do with the compression on it,since its covered just take it on and let the warranty cover it,you could have also bought a bad thermostat to put in it also,it happens a lot these days,good luck.|||I agree with the other poster, I think the head gasket is leaking. Have it towed to a Chrysler dealer. It%26#039;s still under warranty, so they will fix it. The fact that you are late on some payments is irrelevent to the service department. Headgaskets are covered, and the tow is covered as well. It won%26#039;t cost you a dime.
Good luck.|||If you had a bad head gasket, you would definetly get the milky color in you oil.
You have to finish bleeding out the air in the cooling system.
You said that you %26quot;ran out of patience, waiting for the bubbles- I never done this before%26quot;. THAT was your mistake.
In order to bleed out all of the air....
Fill up the radiator with antifreeze, if not full already.
Leave off the cap and start the engine.
Wait for the coolant to rise up and out of the radiator (with engine running)
When the thermostat opens up - the coolant level in the radiator will drop suddenly. (this takes 10-15 min, depending on how cold it is outside and whether the engine is a little warm or completely cold)
**At this point (level drops suddenly) the remaining air that%26#039;s trapped will release into the radiator and you can see the coolant circulate inside the radiator-when you refill**
That%26#039;s when you refill the radiator with more antifreeze. leave some for the reserve tank, because of the air trapped in the heater core.
replace the radiator cap and turn off the motor. Done.......
I%26#039;ve talked to others that use the %26quot;bubble method%26quot; for bleeding out air, but I prefer the method that I just gave you, because it always works.
Sure it%26#039;s a little messy, it wastes a little antifreeze and it%26#039;s not for wimps.
But it ALWAYS WORKS.|||You really did a good check, however im sorry to say that your problem is either a blown head gasket or a cracked head, the combustion gases in the water jacket are creating a vapor lock type of condition stopping the flow of coolant (that%26#039;s why the heat quite working) those neon%26#039;s are known for head gasket problems. it%26#039;s a pretty major task to replace the head and or gasket, I%26#039;ve done a bunch of them and there always a pain in the azz, but yea, that%26#039;s what the problem is.
Did a thermostat check in boiling water and it works
Water pump does not appear to be leaking or making any unusual noises
Car runs fine, other than overheating and no heat
Drained radiator for the first time in 4 years today. Color was orangish red (not sure what the original antifreeze color was). Very small amount came out, just drops in fact. I%26#039;ve never noticed any external coolant leaks.
Refilled it with water, ran for a few minutes, saw no leaks, drained again and it all came out. Top and bottom radiator hoses are both hot when engine is hot.
After refilling radiator with water, did a bleeding technique by running car on moderate incline with radiator cap off, saw lots of air bubbles for several minutes (looking into thermostat housing where radiator cap leads to). Not sure how long I should have let it run but I did it for about 4 or 5 minutes, then got impatient waiting for the bubbles to cease (seemed like it should have been done bubbling but Ive never done this before)
Water comes out of exhaust pipes but only occassionally, chalking it up to condensation. Did notice a VERY VERY TINY amount of white smoke today, but it went away and I chalked it up to it being about 40 or so degrees out today. Hopefully just steam.
Oil looks fine, no milky white or bubbly look to it at all.
Coolant resovoir does not smell like exhaust, nor does it bubble to my knowledge.
I noticed when I popped radiator cap off I had some reddish orange grime built up on it and a little on the inside of the thermostat housing.
I%26#039;ve done all of these checks and spent the last week trying to figure it out on my own. I am now resorting to help from others ;-) It%26#039;s still doing the exact same thing. It doesn%26#039;t really get too hot if I%26#039;m just idling, its when I start driving that it shoots up. It takes about 5-8 minutes for it to get close enough to the red to make me shut it off. The temp has been between 20 and 40 degrees here since this has happened.
-----
I would really appreciate any help. I am at my wits end trying to figure this out. I go from thinking its compression problems, to the thermostat, to the water pump, to a hose leak, to a head gasket....I can%26#039;t figure it out. I don%26#039;t have a lot of money. I do have a 7 year powertrain warranty but have no idea if this kind of stuff is covered in it, and I%26#039;m nervous to take it to the dealer because I don%26#039;t have insurance and I have had some late payments in the recent past.|||Get as much resource as you can maybe is one option,however it could be quite time consuming,here
http://www.AutoInsuranceFree.info
is one resource i have had good experience.|||LOL, this is the best answer?
Sorry, but this seems like spam, but I appreciate your input.
It turned out to be just air pockets in my cooling system. After doing a proper bleeding technique I was able to fix the problem. Car runs great now! Thanks to all who replied!
Report Abuse
|||Call up the dealership and have the vehicle towed and fixed under the warranty that you payed for.|||i think when you was installing the thermostat in it you might have cracked the housing or the intake on it,you need to check this because that will make it run hot on you and also make it loose coolant,you wont hear a head gasket making any noise on it,you,ll only notice a slight amount of smoke or steam from it ,you could have got a bad thermostat or that one is gone bad ,run a compression check on the engine and that will tell you if its got a blown head gasket or not on it without tearing the engine apart,the thermostat doesn%26#039;t have anything to do with the compression on it,since its covered just take it on and let the warranty cover it,you could have also bought a bad thermostat to put in it also,it happens a lot these days,good luck.|||I agree with the other poster, I think the head gasket is leaking. Have it towed to a Chrysler dealer. It%26#039;s still under warranty, so they will fix it. The fact that you are late on some payments is irrelevent to the service department. Headgaskets are covered, and the tow is covered as well. It won%26#039;t cost you a dime.
Good luck.|||If you had a bad head gasket, you would definetly get the milky color in you oil.
You have to finish bleeding out the air in the cooling system.
You said that you %26quot;ran out of patience, waiting for the bubbles- I never done this before%26quot;. THAT was your mistake.
In order to bleed out all of the air....
Fill up the radiator with antifreeze, if not full already.
Leave off the cap and start the engine.
Wait for the coolant to rise up and out of the radiator (with engine running)
When the thermostat opens up - the coolant level in the radiator will drop suddenly. (this takes 10-15 min, depending on how cold it is outside and whether the engine is a little warm or completely cold)
**At this point (level drops suddenly) the remaining air that%26#039;s trapped will release into the radiator and you can see the coolant circulate inside the radiator-when you refill**
That%26#039;s when you refill the radiator with more antifreeze. leave some for the reserve tank, because of the air trapped in the heater core.
replace the radiator cap and turn off the motor. Done.......
I%26#039;ve talked to others that use the %26quot;bubble method%26quot; for bleeding out air, but I prefer the method that I just gave you, because it always works.
Sure it%26#039;s a little messy, it wastes a little antifreeze and it%26#039;s not for wimps.
But it ALWAYS WORKS.|||You really did a good check, however im sorry to say that your problem is either a blown head gasket or a cracked head, the combustion gases in the water jacket are creating a vapor lock type of condition stopping the flow of coolant (that%26#039;s why the heat quite working) those neon%26#039;s are known for head gasket problems. it%26#039;s a pretty major task to replace the head and or gasket, I%26#039;ve done a bunch of them and there always a pain in the azz, but yea, that%26#039;s what the problem is.
2005 Dodge Neon keeps overheating even after changing thermostat?
One day my car started overheating and the heat stopped working. Did a check online and figured it was my thermostat. Changed thermostat but its still doing the exact same thing.
Did a thermostat check in boiling water and it works
Water pump does not appear to be leaking or making any unusual noises
Car runs fine, other than overheating and no heat
Drained radiator for the first time in 4 years today. Color was orangish red (not sure what the original antifreeze color was). Very small amount came out, just drops in fact. I%26#039;ve never noticed any external coolant leaks.
Refilled it with water, ran for a few minutes, saw no leaks, drained again and it all came out. Top and bottom radiator hoses are both hot when engine is hot.
After refilling radiator with water, did a bleeding technique by running car on moderate incline with radiator cap off, saw lots of air bubbles for several minutes (looking into thermostat housing where radiator cap leads to). Not sure how long I should have let it run but I did it for about 4 or 5 minutes, then got impatient waiting for the bubbles to cease (seemed like it should have been done bubbling but Ive never done this before)
Water comes out of exhaust pipes but only occassionally, chalking it up to condensation. Did notice a VERY VERY TINY amount of white smoke today, but it went away and I chalked it up to it being about 40 or so degrees out today. Hopefully just steam.
Oil looks fine, no milky white or bubbly look to it at all.
Coolant resovoir does not smell like exhaust, nor does it bubble to my knowledge.
I noticed when I popped radiator cap off I had some reddish orange grime built up on it and a little on the inside of the thermostat housing.
I%26#039;ve done all of these checks and spent the last week trying to figure it out on my own. I am now resorting to help from others ;-) It%26#039;s still doing the exact same thing. It doesn%26#039;t really get too hot if I%26#039;m just idling, its when I start driving that it shoots up. It takes about 5-8 minutes for it to get close enough to the red to make me shut it off. The temp has been between 20 and 40 degrees here since this has happened.
-----
I would really appreciate any help. I am at my wits end trying to figure this out. I go from thinking its compression problems, to the thermostat, to the water pump, to a hose leak, to a head gasket....I can%26#039;t figure it out. I don%26#039;t have a lot of money. I do have a 7 year powertrain warranty but have no idea if this kind of stuff is covered in it, and I%26#039;m nervous to take it to the dealer because I don%26#039;t have insurance and I have had some late payments in the recent past.|||Get as much resource as you can maybe is one option,however it could be quite time consuming,here
http://www.AutoInsuranceFree.info
is one resource i have had good experience.|||LOL, this is the best answer?
Sorry, but this seems like spam, but I appreciate your input.
It turned out to be just air pockets in my cooling system. After doing a proper bleeding technique I was able to fix the problem. Car runs great now! Thanks to all who replied!
|||Call up the dealership and have the vehicle towed and fixed under the warranty that you payed for.|||i think when you was installing the thermostat in it you might have cracked the housing or the intake on it,you need to check this because that will make it run hot on you and also make it loose coolant,you wont hear a head gasket making any noise on it,you,ll only notice a slight amount of smoke or steam from it ,you could have got a bad thermostat or that one is gone bad ,run a compression check on the engine and that will tell you if its got a blown head gasket or not on it without tearing the engine apart,the thermostat doesn%26#039;t have anything to do with the compression on it,since its covered just take it on and let the warranty cover it,you could have also bought a bad thermostat to put in it also,it happens a lot these days,good luck.|||I agree with the other poster, I think the head gasket is leaking. Have it towed to a Chrysler dealer. It%26#039;s still under warranty, so they will fix it. The fact that you are late on some payments is irrelevent to the service department. Headgaskets are covered, and the tow is covered as well. It won%26#039;t cost you a dime.
Good luck.|||If you had a bad head gasket, you would definetly get the milky color in you oil.
You have to finish bleeding out the air in the cooling system.
You said that you %26quot;ran out of patience, waiting for the bubbles- I never done this before%26quot;. THAT was your mistake.
In order to bleed out all of the air....
Fill up the radiator with antifreeze, if not full already.
Leave off the cap and start the engine.
Wait for the coolant to rise up and out of the radiator (with engine running)
When the thermostat opens up - the coolant level in the radiator will drop suddenly. (this takes 10-15 min, depending on how cold it is outside and whether the engine is a little warm or completely cold)
**At this point (level drops suddenly) the remaining air that%26#039;s trapped will release into the radiator and you can see the coolant circulate inside the radiator-when you refill**
That%26#039;s when you refill the radiator with more antifreeze. leave some for the reserve tank, because of the air trapped in the heater core.
replace the radiator cap and turn off the motor. Done.......
I%26#039;ve talked to others that use the %26quot;bubble method%26quot; for bleeding out air, but I prefer the method that I just gave you, because it always works.
Sure it%26#039;s a little messy, it wastes a little antifreeze and it%26#039;s not for wimps.
But it ALWAYS WORKS.|||You really did a good check, however im sorry to say that your problem is either a blown head gasket or a cracked head, the combustion gases in the water jacket are creating a vapor lock type of condition stopping the flow of coolant (that%26#039;s why the heat quite working) those neon%26#039;s are known for head gasket problems. it%26#039;s a pretty major task to replace the head and or gasket, I%26#039;ve done a bunch of them and there always a pain in the azz, but yea, that%26#039;s what the problem is.
Did a thermostat check in boiling water and it works
Water pump does not appear to be leaking or making any unusual noises
Car runs fine, other than overheating and no heat
Drained radiator for the first time in 4 years today. Color was orangish red (not sure what the original antifreeze color was). Very small amount came out, just drops in fact. I%26#039;ve never noticed any external coolant leaks.
Refilled it with water, ran for a few minutes, saw no leaks, drained again and it all came out. Top and bottom radiator hoses are both hot when engine is hot.
After refilling radiator with water, did a bleeding technique by running car on moderate incline with radiator cap off, saw lots of air bubbles for several minutes (looking into thermostat housing where radiator cap leads to). Not sure how long I should have let it run but I did it for about 4 or 5 minutes, then got impatient waiting for the bubbles to cease (seemed like it should have been done bubbling but Ive never done this before)
Water comes out of exhaust pipes but only occassionally, chalking it up to condensation. Did notice a VERY VERY TINY amount of white smoke today, but it went away and I chalked it up to it being about 40 or so degrees out today. Hopefully just steam.
Oil looks fine, no milky white or bubbly look to it at all.
Coolant resovoir does not smell like exhaust, nor does it bubble to my knowledge.
I noticed when I popped radiator cap off I had some reddish orange grime built up on it and a little on the inside of the thermostat housing.
I%26#039;ve done all of these checks and spent the last week trying to figure it out on my own. I am now resorting to help from others ;-) It%26#039;s still doing the exact same thing. It doesn%26#039;t really get too hot if I%26#039;m just idling, its when I start driving that it shoots up. It takes about 5-8 minutes for it to get close enough to the red to make me shut it off. The temp has been between 20 and 40 degrees here since this has happened.
-----
I would really appreciate any help. I am at my wits end trying to figure this out. I go from thinking its compression problems, to the thermostat, to the water pump, to a hose leak, to a head gasket....I can%26#039;t figure it out. I don%26#039;t have a lot of money. I do have a 7 year powertrain warranty but have no idea if this kind of stuff is covered in it, and I%26#039;m nervous to take it to the dealer because I don%26#039;t have insurance and I have had some late payments in the recent past.|||Get as much resource as you can maybe is one option,however it could be quite time consuming,here
http://www.AutoInsuranceFree.info
is one resource i have had good experience.|||LOL, this is the best answer?
Sorry, but this seems like spam, but I appreciate your input.
It turned out to be just air pockets in my cooling system. After doing a proper bleeding technique I was able to fix the problem. Car runs great now! Thanks to all who replied!
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|||Call up the dealership and have the vehicle towed and fixed under the warranty that you payed for.|||i think when you was installing the thermostat in it you might have cracked the housing or the intake on it,you need to check this because that will make it run hot on you and also make it loose coolant,you wont hear a head gasket making any noise on it,you,ll only notice a slight amount of smoke or steam from it ,you could have got a bad thermostat or that one is gone bad ,run a compression check on the engine and that will tell you if its got a blown head gasket or not on it without tearing the engine apart,the thermostat doesn%26#039;t have anything to do with the compression on it,since its covered just take it on and let the warranty cover it,you could have also bought a bad thermostat to put in it also,it happens a lot these days,good luck.|||I agree with the other poster, I think the head gasket is leaking. Have it towed to a Chrysler dealer. It%26#039;s still under warranty, so they will fix it. The fact that you are late on some payments is irrelevent to the service department. Headgaskets are covered, and the tow is covered as well. It won%26#039;t cost you a dime.
Good luck.|||If you had a bad head gasket, you would definetly get the milky color in you oil.
You have to finish bleeding out the air in the cooling system.
You said that you %26quot;ran out of patience, waiting for the bubbles- I never done this before%26quot;. THAT was your mistake.
In order to bleed out all of the air....
Fill up the radiator with antifreeze, if not full already.
Leave off the cap and start the engine.
Wait for the coolant to rise up and out of the radiator (with engine running)
When the thermostat opens up - the coolant level in the radiator will drop suddenly. (this takes 10-15 min, depending on how cold it is outside and whether the engine is a little warm or completely cold)
**At this point (level drops suddenly) the remaining air that%26#039;s trapped will release into the radiator and you can see the coolant circulate inside the radiator-when you refill**
That%26#039;s when you refill the radiator with more antifreeze. leave some for the reserve tank, because of the air trapped in the heater core.
replace the radiator cap and turn off the motor. Done.......
I%26#039;ve talked to others that use the %26quot;bubble method%26quot; for bleeding out air, but I prefer the method that I just gave you, because it always works.
Sure it%26#039;s a little messy, it wastes a little antifreeze and it%26#039;s not for wimps.
But it ALWAYS WORKS.|||You really did a good check, however im sorry to say that your problem is either a blown head gasket or a cracked head, the combustion gases in the water jacket are creating a vapor lock type of condition stopping the flow of coolant (that%26#039;s why the heat quite working) those neon%26#039;s are known for head gasket problems. it%26#039;s a pretty major task to replace the head and or gasket, I%26#039;ve done a bunch of them and there always a pain in the azz, but yea, that%26#039;s what the problem is.
Do i need to use gasket sealant when changing the thermostat and thermostat gasket on my car?
It is recommended to use the sealant, but in a pinch you can put it on with just the gasket that came with the thermostat. Now if yours is one of them that has an o-ring then no do not use any sealant, just be careful when putting the thermostat housing back on.|||for best results always use a good gasket sealant and gasket especially on chrome plated goose-necks.|||sometimes you do, but alot of gaskets these days seals themselves. if its got a 0-ring, you dont use nothing.|||just a gasket will do!|||In a word, YES. No other sealant will work as well under heat and pressure.
How do you change thermostat 1995 monte carlo?
i googled it and it told me to first remove the air filter and housing.
Second, remove throttle body assembly.
Third, remove metal tube leading to thermostat.
i tried this but i can seem to get the throttle body off. anyone have
any suggestions? i don%26#039;t want to take it to a mechanic. its a 3.4 v6.
thanks|||Once you have the throttle body unbolted and the linkage unhooked.
You can either smach it with a soft rubber mallet, or your hand.
There is a rubber seal and it is just melted into place - it will need to be replaced also.
Then you can get to the tube, and the problem wont be so bad
Second, remove throttle body assembly.
Third, remove metal tube leading to thermostat.
i tried this but i can seem to get the throttle body off. anyone have
any suggestions? i don%26#039;t want to take it to a mechanic. its a 3.4 v6.
thanks|||Once you have the throttle body unbolted and the linkage unhooked.
You can either smach it with a soft rubber mallet, or your hand.
There is a rubber seal and it is just melted into place - it will need to be replaced also.
Then you can get to the tube, and the problem wont be so bad
Changing thermostat (94 s10) HELP!?
Got the corroded thermostat out but bottom bolt will NOT budge. Head of it broke off, tried liquid wrench no luck...help!!! Ideas?|||if theres a bolt stuck i%26#039;d try hot candle wax to get it out. i know it sounds weird but if you drip hot wax from a candle on it, it might come out.
Why would my 95 ford contour se v6 be overheating after changing the thermostat?
I think its probably the water pump, but if you have any other options let me know.|||water pumps are famous for breaking on these things.. you can idle the car and it won%26#039;t usually overheat, only when you ride it , it will it seems from my experience from these nightmares.
also water pump ain%26#039;t on the front of the engine, it%26#039;s hidden in the back of the motor with it%26#039;s own belt and is under the plastic cover near your oil filler cap.... also get a aftermarket water pump... Ford tries to sell you the pump and housing which is a bear to change (as you can%26#039;t just swap the water pumps..no gasket from Ford.) after market has just the pump and gasket and is a pretty easy job after you fight the coolant plug from hell (remove the right radiator support bracket and I usually get it with a slip joint pliers at the drain plug.)|||Ya got it in there right-side up? Yes? Well, maybe it%26#039;s a bad part. DO NOT drive a car which is overheating. Get it fixed first.|||You might have an air pocket. Find the highest point in the coolant system, like a hose on the top of the engine, or a bleeder screw near a thermostat and open it up until you have coolant comeing out.|||If it was overheating before, it is the water pump. One way of tell is if the heater works when the engine gets near hot. The impeller of the water pump is plastic, and sometimes it breaks.|||Could be upside-down. Could have other problems. Regarding
the thermostat---New doesn%26#039;t mean good, it just means new.|||It COULD be the radiator needs cleaning out, or you have bugs stuck in the front of the radiator keeping the air from flowing through it, or your fan clutch has gone out and the fan is not working properly. Remotely the prob could be the new thermostadt you installed was put in upside down or is sticking. To test a new thermostadt you heat a pan of water on the stove with the new thermostadt in it, and watch..does it open up before the water starts to boil?? To test your cooling system for blockages..start with a COOL engine, disconnect the lower radiator hose and remove the thermostadt, stick a garden hose in the upper hole where the thermostadt was and run a moderate stream of water through the system, is it comming out the radiator hose like it should or not? If not try using a %26quot;system flush%26quot; (obtained from the automotive dept in a large store or an Autoparts store), the same goes for flushing the radiator, if that dosn%26#039;t fix the problem you may have to have your radiator %26quot;rodded out%26quot; by a radiator shop. Does your radiator have %26quot;damage%26quot;? You may have to get a rebuilt radiator. If you are in heavy traffic and not moving much everything may be fine and it is just that there is insufficient air flow to cool the motor when you also have the AC on, try shutting off the AC and rolling down the windows..does that cure the problem..if so the problem is %26quot;traffic related%26quot; and there is nothing anyone can do to about it, other than getting a %26quot;desert style%26quot; thicker %26quot;oversized%26quot; radiator from some place out west and having it installed. Remember to keep anti-freeze/collant in the system it helps. Nye|||Fords are notorious for getting air locks in the cooling system after the system has been broken into, ie. changing a hose, water pump, ect. You really have to be sure that you %26quot;burp%26quot; the cooling system after you work on them. To do this, pull your vehicle up onto some car ramps,shut it off, set the temp control to HOT, if cool, take the radiator cap off. Make sure your radiator is filled with your brand of antifreeze/coolant, and keep some extra handy. Start your vehicle and let it warm up naturally watching to see that, as it warms up, the coolant level does not get below the level of the upper radiator hose. Keep adding coolant as needed until the thermostat opens. Once this happens, and the engine is warming up sufficiently, it will spit coolant back out the top of the radiator. Put the cap back on tightly, and see if it pressurizes and goes back into the %26quot;normal%26quot; range. If it does not, you could have a bad radiator cap, or one of your hoses could be collapsing. Unfortunately, you may have accidentally put the thermostat in up side down withoout knowing it. Also, if after warming up the engine, you can see water moving around inside your radiator, typically the water pump is okay.
also water pump ain%26#039;t on the front of the engine, it%26#039;s hidden in the back of the motor with it%26#039;s own belt and is under the plastic cover near your oil filler cap.... also get a aftermarket water pump... Ford tries to sell you the pump and housing which is a bear to change (as you can%26#039;t just swap the water pumps..no gasket from Ford.) after market has just the pump and gasket and is a pretty easy job after you fight the coolant plug from hell (remove the right radiator support bracket and I usually get it with a slip joint pliers at the drain plug.)|||Ya got it in there right-side up? Yes? Well, maybe it%26#039;s a bad part. DO NOT drive a car which is overheating. Get it fixed first.|||You might have an air pocket. Find the highest point in the coolant system, like a hose on the top of the engine, or a bleeder screw near a thermostat and open it up until you have coolant comeing out.|||If it was overheating before, it is the water pump. One way of tell is if the heater works when the engine gets near hot. The impeller of the water pump is plastic, and sometimes it breaks.|||Could be upside-down. Could have other problems. Regarding
the thermostat---New doesn%26#039;t mean good, it just means new.|||It COULD be the radiator needs cleaning out, or you have bugs stuck in the front of the radiator keeping the air from flowing through it, or your fan clutch has gone out and the fan is not working properly. Remotely the prob could be the new thermostadt you installed was put in upside down or is sticking. To test a new thermostadt you heat a pan of water on the stove with the new thermostadt in it, and watch..does it open up before the water starts to boil?? To test your cooling system for blockages..start with a COOL engine, disconnect the lower radiator hose and remove the thermostadt, stick a garden hose in the upper hole where the thermostadt was and run a moderate stream of water through the system, is it comming out the radiator hose like it should or not? If not try using a %26quot;system flush%26quot; (obtained from the automotive dept in a large store or an Autoparts store), the same goes for flushing the radiator, if that dosn%26#039;t fix the problem you may have to have your radiator %26quot;rodded out%26quot; by a radiator shop. Does your radiator have %26quot;damage%26quot;? You may have to get a rebuilt radiator. If you are in heavy traffic and not moving much everything may be fine and it is just that there is insufficient air flow to cool the motor when you also have the AC on, try shutting off the AC and rolling down the windows..does that cure the problem..if so the problem is %26quot;traffic related%26quot; and there is nothing anyone can do to about it, other than getting a %26quot;desert style%26quot; thicker %26quot;oversized%26quot; radiator from some place out west and having it installed. Remember to keep anti-freeze/collant in the system it helps. Nye|||Fords are notorious for getting air locks in the cooling system after the system has been broken into, ie. changing a hose, water pump, ect. You really have to be sure that you %26quot;burp%26quot; the cooling system after you work on them. To do this, pull your vehicle up onto some car ramps,shut it off, set the temp control to HOT, if cool, take the radiator cap off. Make sure your radiator is filled with your brand of antifreeze/coolant, and keep some extra handy. Start your vehicle and let it warm up naturally watching to see that, as it warms up, the coolant level does not get below the level of the upper radiator hose. Keep adding coolant as needed until the thermostat opens. Once this happens, and the engine is warming up sufficiently, it will spit coolant back out the top of the radiator. Put the cap back on tightly, and see if it pressurizes and goes back into the %26quot;normal%26quot; range. If it does not, you could have a bad radiator cap, or one of your hoses could be collapsing. Unfortunately, you may have accidentally put the thermostat in up side down withoout knowing it. Also, if after warming up the engine, you can see water moving around inside your radiator, typically the water pump is okay.
Broke something while changing the thermostat?
While my husband was taking the thermostat housing off of our 3.3L 200bbl engine, he accidentally hit a sensor type part on the left and it looks like it broke. What is the part and can it be replaced? The problem we are having now is that the car stalls when it is idleing.|||need year make model|||Buy yourself a Chilton or Haynes manual. They%26#039;re about 20 bucks from any major auto supply store. The information contained in those books is tremendous. If you can turn a wrench and a screwdriver, those books will tell you how to do just about every repair a car owner can do by himself.
The book will tell you what that part is.
The book will tell you what that part is.
Changing thermostat on 2004 kia optima?
i have a 2004 optima(4cyl) and i believe the thermostat is stuck closed cause its been overheating at idle so i let it get hot and i checked both radiator hoses and one was burning hot and the bottom one was cool enough for me to put my hand on it. so i was wondering if anyone could help me out and tell me where its located on my kia? thanks so much|||Thermostats are usually situated at top hoses ends engine side.
Rarely at bottom hose end engine side.
Rarely at bottom hose end engine side.
I am changing the thermostat in my 88 chevy Van ?
the support rod for the serpentine belt tensioner covers the nut to the rh side of the thermostat cover.How to i remove the rod?
I have drained the coolent.|||take the rod off by the thermostat and where it connects to the tensioner|||http://www.qvvo.com/link/2abc4cdb|||ok... i changed the thermostat,in a 87 conversion van bout 4 months ago...so... have you taken the cowl hood off inside?... if you have,nt you wont be able to do it unlessyou should see the bolt on the inside after you take the cowl off....its fun!have patienceyou should see the rod from there
I have drained the coolent.|||take the rod off by the thermostat and where it connects to the tensioner|||http://www.qvvo.com/link/2abc4cdb|||ok... i changed the thermostat,in a 87 conversion van bout 4 months ago...so... have you taken the cowl hood off inside?... if you have,nt you wont be able to do it unlessyou should see the bolt on the inside after you take the cowl off....its fun!have patienceyou should see the rod from there
Is changing the thermostat on honda civic a pain or pretty easy?
My heater is crapping out on me and its winter and snowing, kind of need my windows defrosted before i drive to work in the morning, someone suggested might be the thermostat, I know what it is but havent changed it on this kind of car before, wondering if anyone thats doen it could tell me if its pretty quick and simple or does it take a little bit of time? thanks|||it is only a pain if you dont have an extension about one foot long, the bottom bolt is nested down between the head and the top of the tranny. just remove the air cleaner and air pipe then go to town on it should be two 12 or 13mm bolts make sure to get the rubber thermostat housing seal also %26quot;most rip when removing%26quot; and your good to go!!|||It could be a number of other problems, possibly the heater core, blower motor, or an electrical problem. What exactly is the problem? The thermostat controls the circulation of coolant through the radiator and engine. Have you noticed any fluctuations in engine temperature? If your car is running normally and your heater isn%26#039;t working, I would check the heater-related components first. Signs of a bad heater core include condensation on windows/windshield, %26quot;sweet%26quot; smell when the heater is turned on, wet spots on the floor, and coolant loss.|||Its 2 bolts and 5 minute%26#039;s of work and topping off the antifreeze once done oh yea and its a 10mm bolt and honda does not use a 13mm bolt underneath the hood
Is it necessary to drain all the antifreeze when changing the thermostat on a truck?
It depends on where the thermostat is located. You only need to drain it so that the antifreeze is lower than the thermostat. (usually less than half)
If you don%26#039;t drain it , it will only run out.|||I usually recommend changing the antifreeze when changing the thermostat unless the coolant has recently been changed.It depends on the age and condition of the antifreeze, generally most people do not change a thermostat until age and corrosion have destroyed it and the antifreeze is usually well past it%26#039;s useful life and yes should be drained and flushed at the same time. Coolant does age and breakdown and should be replaced on average after about 3-4 years of service. You can test your antifreeze with a litmus strip (measures the acidity of the antifreeze), as the coolant breaks down it turns acidic and is hard on the heater core, radiator and water pump seal, not only that but an acid flowing through metal builds up a static charge and that charge has to dissipate by arcing to the metal causing pitting and corrosion.|||depends on where its located the higher the location of the thermostat the less you need to drain the lower the location of the thermostat yes drain the radiator and when i say higher i mean in relation to the radiator and fill tank|||if it has come time to change the coolant thermostat, then yes it is advisable to change out all the coolant.
If you don%26#039;t drain it , it will only run out.|||I usually recommend changing the antifreeze when changing the thermostat unless the coolant has recently been changed.It depends on the age and condition of the antifreeze, generally most people do not change a thermostat until age and corrosion have destroyed it and the antifreeze is usually well past it%26#039;s useful life and yes should be drained and flushed at the same time. Coolant does age and breakdown and should be replaced on average after about 3-4 years of service. You can test your antifreeze with a litmus strip (measures the acidity of the antifreeze), as the coolant breaks down it turns acidic and is hard on the heater core, radiator and water pump seal, not only that but an acid flowing through metal builds up a static charge and that charge has to dissipate by arcing to the metal causing pitting and corrosion.|||depends on where its located the higher the location of the thermostat the less you need to drain the lower the location of the thermostat yes drain the radiator and when i say higher i mean in relation to the radiator and fill tank|||if it has come time to change the coolant thermostat, then yes it is advisable to change out all the coolant.
Changing a thermostat on a '99 Plymouth Neon?
Can anyone comment on how difficult is it to change the thermostat on a %26#039;99 Plymouth Neon?? Parts run $25 bucks, but I would like to save labor if possible. Thanks.|||its pretty easy find the radiator the big silver thing in the frontthen find the upper hose and find where it meets the engine there there will be a couple of studs take those out lift it off and pull out the thermostat out of the hose and then put in the new one THE RIGHT WAY and put the hose back on and make sure the temp of the new thermostat is the same|||follow the top radiator hose to the motor. unscrew the tobolts and take off the hose clamps. lift the metal spout the two bolt were holding down and theres the thermostat. You%26#039;ll lose a little antifreeze, so you need to add back. I recomend the pre-mixed stuff.|||it not something you can do, if you aint familar with car and tools
Changing thermostat in a 5.9 cummins diesel
I have a 04.5 2500 dodge with the 5.9 HO cummins how hard is it to change the thermostat|||It is pretty much a piece of cake, book time is only 1.0 hours, you can do it....
'97 Mercury Voyager van--changed thermostat for $130 but still running hot and blowing cold air?
Heater put out heat for one day after changing the thermostat. Any ideas? Young workmate is just a janitor with a baby and needs the car to get to work. Thanks!|||Check the coolant level. They may have forgot to purge the air from the system.
禄禄禄|||tell your buddy, after hes driven his car, shut it down and feel the radiator next to the fan, feel the fins of the radiator, if he feels cold spots, it needs flushing. in matter of fact, tell him to flush the entire cooling system.|||Heater core???|||As Mr. T says, recheck the coolant level. Also make sure the system has been bled correctly. Many cars have a bleeder screw on the thermostat housing or in one of the coolant lines. Loosen that bleeder screw with the van off and then fill the reservoir until fluid comes out then retighten.|||things that affect heat,,,,1..coolant level...is air in system.?..2.heater blend door...stuck?..,,3 heater control valve...is hot water[coolant going into core]?.4 bad heater core...flush it out to see...5 waterump is bad...not cirulating coolant...6...thermostate is stuck...again...it happens..
禄禄禄|||tell your buddy, after hes driven his car, shut it down and feel the radiator next to the fan, feel the fins of the radiator, if he feels cold spots, it needs flushing. in matter of fact, tell him to flush the entire cooling system.|||Heater core???|||As Mr. T says, recheck the coolant level. Also make sure the system has been bled correctly. Many cars have a bleeder screw on the thermostat housing or in one of the coolant lines. Loosen that bleeder screw with the van off and then fill the reservoir until fluid comes out then retighten.|||things that affect heat,,,,1..coolant level...is air in system.?..2.heater blend door...stuck?..,,3 heater control valve...is hot water[coolant going into core]?.4 bad heater core...flush it out to see...5 waterump is bad...not cirulating coolant...6...thermostate is stuck...again...it happens..
How do I bleed the coolant in a 92 Accord when changing the thermostat?
If you are asking how to bleed the coolant and it%26#039;s after you have changed the thermostat just fill it with 50/50 water coolant and let it run till it reaches running temp. During this warm up time add coolant as needed and when it is at running temp top off the radiator. If it only has a coolant reservoir
just keep the coolant at the hot full level.
just keep the coolant at the hot full level.
Changing analog thermostat to digital?
Hi, I am planning on changing my old analog thermostat to a new digital one that will help me control the heat better, at different times etc.
I%26#039;m not an electrician but trust myself enough to do certain jobs with the right instructions.
One immediate question I have though is that I notice that my old analog thermo only has one black cable running into it. Question is, will this be sufficient for any digial thermo I buy?
I haven%26#039;t yet bought the thermo and curious about this before doing so.
Thanks,|||The black cable connected to your present thermostat has at least two conductors. The thermostat is essentially a switch, turning the heater on or off as needed.
The type thermostat you require will depend on whether you use electric heat or a furnace. One type will switch high current AC to the heaters, the other switches the 24V controls on the furnace. Many low voltage thermostats will also have connections for a central air conditioning system built in.
When installing it is a relatively simple procedure to swap the two wires from the old thermostat to the new thermostat. It%26#039;s a good idea to shut off power while doing this. Instructions are included with the new thermostat with wiring and programming explanations.|||the cable will have several wires in it, depending on if you have central a/c or not. the red and white wire control the heat portion of the stat. But all in all you probably have four wires at terminals marked r-w-g-y. Just remove from one and move the the new stat. Make sure you turn off the power to furnace when yo begin. Make sure your new stat is for a compatible system like: 24v forced air, boilers etc . . .|||ditto on above answers...i%26#039;ll add that you should be sure to use a name brand tstat such as honeywell or white rodgers,,not the $20 one on sale..i also prefer the tstats that still take batteries,,they wont act up if furnace limit opens such as when running a long time to recover home temp after setting it back for hours..just a tip........dan
I%26#039;m not an electrician but trust myself enough to do certain jobs with the right instructions.
One immediate question I have though is that I notice that my old analog thermo only has one black cable running into it. Question is, will this be sufficient for any digial thermo I buy?
I haven%26#039;t yet bought the thermo and curious about this before doing so.
Thanks,|||The black cable connected to your present thermostat has at least two conductors. The thermostat is essentially a switch, turning the heater on or off as needed.
The type thermostat you require will depend on whether you use electric heat or a furnace. One type will switch high current AC to the heaters, the other switches the 24V controls on the furnace. Many low voltage thermostats will also have connections for a central air conditioning system built in.
When installing it is a relatively simple procedure to swap the two wires from the old thermostat to the new thermostat. It%26#039;s a good idea to shut off power while doing this. Instructions are included with the new thermostat with wiring and programming explanations.|||the cable will have several wires in it, depending on if you have central a/c or not. the red and white wire control the heat portion of the stat. But all in all you probably have four wires at terminals marked r-w-g-y. Just remove from one and move the the new stat. Make sure you turn off the power to furnace when yo begin. Make sure your new stat is for a compatible system like: 24v forced air, boilers etc . . .|||ditto on above answers...i%26#039;ll add that you should be sure to use a name brand tstat such as honeywell or white rodgers,,not the $20 one on sale..i also prefer the tstats that still take batteries,,they wont act up if furnace limit opens such as when running a long time to recover home temp after setting it back for hours..just a tip........dan
Changing the thermostat for a 1998 Civic?
the thermostat recently went on my civic so i went and bought a new one im pretty sure i know how to change it but i just want to make sure im right?? what is the correct way to change it?|||SOME of them are on the LOWER hose - not sure about yours.|||The side with the spring goes towards the engine.|||make sure your car is cold before u start the job. empty your radiator and turn the heater control to hot, and try to blow out as much coolant as u can to prepare the system to be flushed as now is the time to do it. follow the lower radiator hose up to the thermostat housing, remove the clamp and then the hose. there will be 2 10mm head bolts holdong the housing on as well as a third bolt holding ground wires, remove the ground wires and then the holding bolts. shove a garden hose down all your openings and flush till clean water comes out. put the new thermostat with a new gasket into place and reverse the removal steps. the TRICK to filling up the coolant. a couple of inches behind the thermostat, on the housing, is a bleeder for the coolant. because u flushed with water, pour pure coolant up to 3/4 of a gallon in to the radiator. mix whats left with water to 50/50 and top off. fire up your car and look for any leaks. good luck
Suggestions on changing Thermostat in a 94 grand Prix 3.1?
They put the thing in the dumbest location! Does anyone have a simple attack method?|||refer to your owner%26#039;s manuel and if that doesn%26#039;t work lookit up online or in car repair for dummies|||Take it to your mechanic!
Is changing the thermostat on a water heater easy enough for a novice?
Of course, I have never done this type of task before but I need to know if I am looking towards trouble if I consider this task on my own? Help|||knowledge is key, 2 t-stats, upper and lower on most WH%26#039;s. look on back of t-stat package and read wireing diagram. The only problem that I%26#039;ve encountered is that some wires may be too short when you change to new t-stat. You can get some 12 gauge wire from hardware store and possible need some yellow wire nuts to compensate for wire shortness if you run into that problem.Set both t-stats at same temperature. A $12 volt ohm meter will be good to have to make sure you don%26#039;t get shocked ( always check for no power before touching wires or t-stat) it%26#039;s also good for testing elements for continuity (seeing if they are good or fried)|||First and foremost, make sure you turn the electric off for the heater. Double check with a meter or probe that the electric is shut for the heater. Follow the manufacturers directions and you won%26#039;t have a problem changing the t-stat. Are you sure the t-stat is not functioning??|||Label wires, keep track of where the screws came from, keep the old part until you have the new part installed and tested and you should be okay. You may also want to take photos as you go along as a mental jog should problems arise.
GL.|||The thermostat usually the last thing to go on a h2o htr. What is your problem. Is it gas or electric. Provide more info.|||Hmmm. Do you mean change the setting or do you mean change out the thermostat for a new one? See the other answers to just change the setting.
Removing and replacing the thermostat is not a job for a novice. Find someone who has done it and have them help you.|||It depends on the brand or style of thermostat , most of what I deal with use a clip to hold it against the tank , just lift enough to release the Th and slide it up (some can be tricky) of course you need the breakers off and disconnect the wires (keep track of where they go)
some have little nuts or screws to hold the Th up to the tank another has a probe that screws into the tank
I would guess your heating elements are the problem|||Changing the stat is fairly easy. Make sure you turn the power off first. Other than that you might want to make sure your changing the right part before you go to the trouble.. God Bless.|||Changing the thermostat is a VERY simple job, just 2 bolts and 2 wires. Look at it and make notes as to where the wires go. Good luck with your project.|||If you are just changing the Thermostat, then you have to switch off the electric supply to the thermostat first which is ususally a switch by the Immersion hater. Then remove the plastic cover, and unscrew the wirs to the thermostst. Withdraw the old thermostst and fit the new one and re connect the wires as they were fitted. Replace the cover, and switch the electric back on. Job Done!!
There is no need to drain the tank if it is only the thermostat to be changed.|||I guess the question is why do you think you need to adjust the thermostat?
If your water has been consistently hot and suddenly it%26#039;s not, you have other issues (bad element(s), etc).
Below is a link showing, step by step, how to do it...|||It should just be a dial somewhere near the bottom. It%26#039;s just a dial and it says hot one way and cold the other. Turn it whichever way you want.
GL.|||The thermostat usually the last thing to go on a h2o htr. What is your problem. Is it gas or electric. Provide more info.|||Hmmm. Do you mean change the setting or do you mean change out the thermostat for a new one? See the other answers to just change the setting.
Removing and replacing the thermostat is not a job for a novice. Find someone who has done it and have them help you.|||It depends on the brand or style of thermostat , most of what I deal with use a clip to hold it against the tank , just lift enough to release the Th and slide it up (some can be tricky) of course you need the breakers off and disconnect the wires (keep track of where they go)
some have little nuts or screws to hold the Th up to the tank another has a probe that screws into the tank
I would guess your heating elements are the problem|||Changing the stat is fairly easy. Make sure you turn the power off first. Other than that you might want to make sure your changing the right part before you go to the trouble.. God Bless.|||Changing the thermostat is a VERY simple job, just 2 bolts and 2 wires. Look at it and make notes as to where the wires go. Good luck with your project.|||If you are just changing the Thermostat, then you have to switch off the electric supply to the thermostat first which is ususally a switch by the Immersion hater. Then remove the plastic cover, and unscrew the wirs to the thermostst. Withdraw the old thermostst and fit the new one and re connect the wires as they were fitted. Replace the cover, and switch the electric back on. Job Done!!
There is no need to drain the tank if it is only the thermostat to be changed.|||I guess the question is why do you think you need to adjust the thermostat?
If your water has been consistently hot and suddenly it%26#039;s not, you have other issues (bad element(s), etc).
Below is a link showing, step by step, how to do it...|||It should just be a dial somewhere near the bottom. It%26#039;s just a dial and it says hot one way and cold the other. Turn it whichever way you want.
2001 Montero sport that the temp guage keeps rising even after changing the thermostat twice.?
I have changed the thermostat on 2001 Montero sport twice and the fan clutch. Temp gauge still rises high when at a stop. Dealership service checked twice and stated its OK. But why does the gauge rise? Don%26#039;t want to overheat the engine.|||Could be a plugged radiator.|||its possible the bottom of the radiator is stopped up on it,that will cause it to over heat a slight bit,and cause the gage to rise on it,it may come down to you having to have the entire cooling system flushed out on it,that may cure it,and it can also be a water pump going bad on it also,if you cant find it and flushing it out doesn%26#039;t cure it have a shop check it,they may be able to find the problem with it,flushing one out usually helps it though,good luck.
When changing the thermostat is it a must to?
put sealant on the gasket? Or do you even put sealant on a gasket? And about how much do you use? I just took off the thermostat housing and there was no thermostat in there. I guess that%26#039;s why it always ran cold. So Im not positive how the thermostat goes in the housing. Should the spring part be facing down, away from the upper radiator hose? The car is a 1997 Dodge Intrepid 3.5 liter.|||Ok.. the thermostat spring portion should be positioned so it%26#039;s inside the engine block. It%26#039;s really the only way it can go in.
If the gasket is paper material, then DEFINETELY use a gasket sealer on both sides. If you don%26#039;t, you run the risk of a leak and get to do the job all over again.
IF the gasket is rubber, you put nothing on it. If the gasket is an o-ring only, you put nothing on it.
ONLY if it%26#039;s a paper gasket.|||The spring faced downward.
The upper half of the housing is likely too small to accommodate the thermostat if it%26#039;s improperly installed.
Use only a gasket, no sealant ever.|||the spring goes towards the engine, the pointed end goes towards the radiator,and you probably wont have to use a sealant on the housing if its in good shape,it never hurts though to check it and add some if needed,i usually don%26#039;t have to use it on those car though they seal up pretty good,good luck.|||Dodge man and eric are right, and no sealant if gskt is rubber and if you used paper yes sealant and use a thin amount both sides. You don%26#039;t want excessive sealant getting into the thermostat
Good Luck
If the gasket is paper material, then DEFINETELY use a gasket sealer on both sides. If you don%26#039;t, you run the risk of a leak and get to do the job all over again.
IF the gasket is rubber, you put nothing on it. If the gasket is an o-ring only, you put nothing on it.
ONLY if it%26#039;s a paper gasket.|||The spring faced downward.
The upper half of the housing is likely too small to accommodate the thermostat if it%26#039;s improperly installed.
Use only a gasket, no sealant ever.|||the spring goes towards the engine, the pointed end goes towards the radiator,and you probably wont have to use a sealant on the housing if its in good shape,it never hurts though to check it and add some if needed,i usually don%26#039;t have to use it on those car though they seal up pretty good,good luck.|||Dodge man and eric are right, and no sealant if gskt is rubber and if you used paper yes sealant and use a thin amount both sides. You don%26#039;t want excessive sealant getting into the thermostat
Good Luck
Changing thermostat for Toyota Camry 2000?
I have Engine check light ON, the error message is P0128.
With reference to my post yesterday, i might have to change thermostat of my car. Now i have two questions
1. How do i find out that Thermostat is not working ?
2. Is it possible to replace thermostat on my own ?|||1. Boil a pot of water on your stove, now drop the thermostat into that water and you should be able to see the thermostat open up. If the thermostat doesn%26#039;t open than it is bad and needs to be replaced.
2. Yes you can replace the thermostat on your own, it%26#039;s really quite simple. Make sure when you buy a new thermostat that it comes with a seal because this eliminates the need to buy a separate gasket. Before installing a new thermostat, place the new thermostat in boiling water so it can open up for the first time. Sometimes if you don%26#039;t do that than your car will overheat before the thermostat opens up for the first time. To locate where the thermostat is on your vehicle, follow the upper radiator hose to where it meets the engine. That is where the thermostat is located. You didn%26#039;t mention what engine you have but you may need to remove something to gain better access. Now drain your coolant into a clean container because if your coolant is in good shape you can reuse it and you don%26#039;t want other contaminants in your coolant. Now just remove the thermostat housing which usually just requires removing a couple bolts and pull the housing away from the engine. Remove the thermostat and clean the surfaces of the housing and the engine so you get proper seal. Install new thermostat in the same way it came out, DON%26#039;T INSTALL IT BACKWARDS!!! Now put everything back together and refill your cooling system with either new coolant or reuse your drained coolant if it is still good. Run your car for fifteen minutes, make sure it doesn%26#039;t overheat, check for leaks and top off coolant as needed.
Good Luck!|||In reverse order, yes you can replace the thermostat yourself. Get yourself a repair manual for your vehicle and it%26#039;ll walk you through it. It%26#039;s not hard at all. As for testing the thermostat, there%26#039;s a couple of ways to see if it%26#039;s opening or not. First, take the cap off the radiator and start the car. Let it warm to operating temperature and then watch the coolant in the radiator. It it%26#039;s moving then more than likely the thermostat is opening and doesn%26#039;t need replacement. If you don%26#039;t notice any movement of the coolant, you can remove the thermostat and put it in hot water. The thermostat body should have a temperature stamped into it and if you place it in water that temperature, you should be able to see it open.|||A simple test to find out if the thermostat is opening or not is to heat up some water on the stove to about 180 degrees, and then place the thermostat into the water. If it is working properly, it will quickly open up.
you have to drain some of the coolant.
to locate your thermostat, look where the end of the top radiator hose leads to the engine,at the end of the hose is the thermostat housing, the thermostat is inside it....
take out the thermostat housing you will find the thermostat.
(your going to need new gasket when you put it back)
With reference to my post yesterday, i might have to change thermostat of my car. Now i have two questions
1. How do i find out that Thermostat is not working ?
2. Is it possible to replace thermostat on my own ?|||1. Boil a pot of water on your stove, now drop the thermostat into that water and you should be able to see the thermostat open up. If the thermostat doesn%26#039;t open than it is bad and needs to be replaced.
2. Yes you can replace the thermostat on your own, it%26#039;s really quite simple. Make sure when you buy a new thermostat that it comes with a seal because this eliminates the need to buy a separate gasket. Before installing a new thermostat, place the new thermostat in boiling water so it can open up for the first time. Sometimes if you don%26#039;t do that than your car will overheat before the thermostat opens up for the first time. To locate where the thermostat is on your vehicle, follow the upper radiator hose to where it meets the engine. That is where the thermostat is located. You didn%26#039;t mention what engine you have but you may need to remove something to gain better access. Now drain your coolant into a clean container because if your coolant is in good shape you can reuse it and you don%26#039;t want other contaminants in your coolant. Now just remove the thermostat housing which usually just requires removing a couple bolts and pull the housing away from the engine. Remove the thermostat and clean the surfaces of the housing and the engine so you get proper seal. Install new thermostat in the same way it came out, DON%26#039;T INSTALL IT BACKWARDS!!! Now put everything back together and refill your cooling system with either new coolant or reuse your drained coolant if it is still good. Run your car for fifteen minutes, make sure it doesn%26#039;t overheat, check for leaks and top off coolant as needed.
Good Luck!|||In reverse order, yes you can replace the thermostat yourself. Get yourself a repair manual for your vehicle and it%26#039;ll walk you through it. It%26#039;s not hard at all. As for testing the thermostat, there%26#039;s a couple of ways to see if it%26#039;s opening or not. First, take the cap off the radiator and start the car. Let it warm to operating temperature and then watch the coolant in the radiator. It it%26#039;s moving then more than likely the thermostat is opening and doesn%26#039;t need replacement. If you don%26#039;t notice any movement of the coolant, you can remove the thermostat and put it in hot water. The thermostat body should have a temperature stamped into it and if you place it in water that temperature, you should be able to see it open.|||A simple test to find out if the thermostat is opening or not is to heat up some water on the stove to about 180 degrees, and then place the thermostat into the water. If it is working properly, it will quickly open up.
you have to drain some of the coolant.
to locate your thermostat, look where the end of the top radiator hose leads to the engine,at the end of the hose is the thermostat housing, the thermostat is inside it....
take out the thermostat housing you will find the thermostat.
(your going to need new gasket when you put it back)
Changing the thermostat in a Ford Aspire?
I need to change to the thermostat in a 1994 Ford Aspire. The bottom bolt holding the thermostat cover is impossible to reach with a socket or wrench. There is a metal coolant tube that is in front of the bottom bolt. I can%26#039;t come from the side of the bolt because the thermostat cover prevents it. Does anyone know an easy way to reach the thermostat on this car ?|||i always say buy a shop manual...best 15 dollars/pounds you can spend...step by step...and next time at the shop u will know more and b less likely to get ripped off.|||A friend of mine has one but his is a year newer than yours.He had me do work on his because it needed a lot of work on it.The way to get to that bottom bolt is to remove the tube your talking about.The book I used to fix his was a chiltons manual.Everything that I had to fix on his was easy to do.hgm20002000@yahoo.com
Should I change the thermostat if the water in the radiator is at a standstill while running?
99 gmc yukon|||If you took the rad cap off, and started the car, the water or coolant won%26#039;t move in the rad, until it reaches 195 degrees. Don%26#039;t try this when the car is up to temperature, or you may get a bad steam burn. Not sure? Get a pro to check for you.|||is your engine overheating??|||What temperature is engine when you are looking ? If not up to 195 or higher , water will not be moving as t-stat has not opened yet . If above that temp and not moving then you will have some problems and it should be over heating . More info please .|||you did not provide enogh info for any kind of answer|||NOOO
If you take the thermostat out while the engine is running you are going to burn yourself when all of the water starts pumping out of the rad hose.
Turn it off and wait until it cools down.
If you take the thermostat out while the engine is running you are going to burn yourself when all of the water starts pumping out of the rad hose.
Turn it off and wait until it cools down.
Changing thermostat on 98 Honda CRV?
Folks, can a DOY change the thermostat on a Honda CRV? I%26#039;d appreciate a link that shows the exact location of the thing. Thanks.|||www.v6performance.net|||Bottom radiator hose at the engine.|||try collegehillshonda.com or youtube.com
My kids keep changing the thermostat and i was wondering if there was a way to disable the dial or get a new?
My kids are having a blast changing the thermostat and it is using too much gas, heh. I was wonder if there was a way to disable the dial (its a old thermostat) so no matter where they moved it, it would always heat to a specific temperature. Also, if that is not a possiablity, maybe there is something new i could get? I dont know. Thanks a million|||my dad got this box where u put it over the thermostat and u had to have a key to open it|||If you buy a new one they are lockable and you will have to know a code. Programable for certain times as well to save electricity. Also very easy to install, just match colored wires. But be sure to read directions.|||I used to do that as a kid!! My parents used to tell me put on a sweater (in the winter) or go to someone else%26#039;s house for air-conditioning (in the summer)
You should get a plastic cover with a lock like they have at schools. It might look gaudy but they%26#039;d get the message.|||You can buy a clear plastic case that fits over the thermostat and locks, so they can%26#039;t access it. The college I attend has this installed over the thermostat in some of the rooms, so we can%26#039;t adjust the temps! Just check with Lowe%26#039;s or Home Depot.|||I worked at a place that was so hot inside, we kept lowering the thermostat because, we could%26#039;nt work, the old women that worked there were always cold. The Company put one of those clear lockable boxes on the thermostat so that nobody could touch it, there are vent holes in the box so that the air temp can be monitored by the thermostat. All we did was insert a straightened paper clip into the vent holes to lower the thermostat lever, they could never figure out what we were doing... DUH !|||There are covers you can put over them. You see them a lot at large company%26#039;s so employee%26#039;s can%26#039;t change the temperature, heat or cold.
You can purchase the same at your local hardware store. These covers aren%26#039;t used only for commercial use. It%26#039;s an inexpensive way to keep little fingers off the thermostat.|||If you dont want to do a lot of home rewiring or anything, buy one of those small hinge type covers with a key lock, its not gorgeous, but its cheap.|||You%26#039;ve got a few valid answers; all you need do is award the 10; and shop.
Certainly covers that lock are sold for commercial establishments and will adapt to residential. Metal/ Plastic won%26#039;t matter. I do suggest the key version as opposed to any combination, or keypad with a code.
You should get a plastic cover with a lock like they have at schools. It might look gaudy but they%26#039;d get the message.|||You can buy a clear plastic case that fits over the thermostat and locks, so they can%26#039;t access it. The college I attend has this installed over the thermostat in some of the rooms, so we can%26#039;t adjust the temps! Just check with Lowe%26#039;s or Home Depot.|||I worked at a place that was so hot inside, we kept lowering the thermostat because, we could%26#039;nt work, the old women that worked there were always cold. The Company put one of those clear lockable boxes on the thermostat so that nobody could touch it, there are vent holes in the box so that the air temp can be monitored by the thermostat. All we did was insert a straightened paper clip into the vent holes to lower the thermostat lever, they could never figure out what we were doing... DUH !|||There are covers you can put over them. You see them a lot at large company%26#039;s so employee%26#039;s can%26#039;t change the temperature, heat or cold.
You can purchase the same at your local hardware store. These covers aren%26#039;t used only for commercial use. It%26#039;s an inexpensive way to keep little fingers off the thermostat.|||If you dont want to do a lot of home rewiring or anything, buy one of those small hinge type covers with a key lock, its not gorgeous, but its cheap.|||You%26#039;ve got a few valid answers; all you need do is award the 10; and shop.
Certainly covers that lock are sold for commercial establishments and will adapt to residential. Metal/ Plastic won%26#039;t matter. I do suggest the key version as opposed to any combination, or keypad with a code.
Changing thermostat - what is the proper way - removing the throttle plate or exhaust pipe?
usually the thermostat is in line with a coolant hose. It is usually mounted on the engine block.|||Depends on what kind of vehicle.|||knowing on what might help|||remove the muffler bearing first then the throttle plate then the exhaust pipe.|||When changing the old thermostat out and replacing it with a new one, one must first drain the radiator fluid and then remove(most typically although not always) the coolant intake pipe bolted to the engine block(which means removing the old gasket and applying an new one too). However, some cars have the thermostat INSIDE the coolant intake hose itself. Which leads to a whole new meaning to %26quot;pain in the butt%26quot; when it comes to replacement.|||I think you%26#039;re describing a GM 3.1 or 3.4 engine, and if so you dont need to remove either. Just a few hand acrobatics and you should be able to sneak around the pipe and remove the two bolts holding the housing to the block. After that just replace thermostat and gasket, add antifreeze. Pat yourself on the back and use the money you saved by buying the movie Cloverfield on blue-ray.
Does constantly changing the thermostat temperature 2-3 degrees affect electricity usage?
Would changing the thermostat back up and down 2-3 degrees affect electricity usage rather than keeping it at one temperature. For example, my roomates like to change the thermostat around 2 degrees lower at night then change it up again in the day.
I always thought this would cause the AC to work harder to maintain the temperature, thus leading to a high electricity bill.|||The rule of thumb is that you can save about 3% on your heating bill for every degree that you set back your thermostat|||yes
we did a 2 yr study on changing the temp at night and turning it back up in the am, with a programmable thermostat,
we dropped the temp 5 deg at night, then back to 70 at day time
for 1 yr then we removed the programmable one and went to a standard thermostat, and left it at 69 deg 24/7
we saved over $1,000 a yr on the electric and fuel bill with the standard thermostat.|||Ultimately depends on the time of year. I%26#039;m assuming we%26#039;re talking about the summer because you said AC. If you turn the thermostat higher during the day (when its hotter), then the AC unit will work less often, thus saving you energy. At the night when it%26#039;s cooler, even though the AC thermostat has been lowered, the AC unit doesn%26#039;t have to compete with the sun%26#039;s direct heat which makes it cheaper to operate.|||Any time you set your thermostat down you save money. Anytime you raise you thermostat it is costing you money.
If you set it down 2 degs you are saving money. If you set it back up to the original setting you will be right back where you started if you hadn%26#039;t set it down. You save money during the time it is set down and you spend the same money during the time it is set back to the original setting. A net saving.
People so think otherwise have never sat down and done the math.|||adjusting your thermostat 2-3 will only save you money.
adjusting it 10+ is where your theory baffles many. but it still saves money...
the lower the thermostat the more money you will save no matter how much you change it.|||It is all relative . So it all averages out.|||when it goes lower it saves you money that is what you are suppose to do 5degrees is better|||When you ask, %26quot;Does constantly changing the thermostat....affect electricity usage?%26quot;, the answer is %26quot;Yes, it saves electricity usage.%26quot; Any time you turn something off, you save, and raising the AC thermostat setting will turn the AC off for longer periods of time. You cannot save more than when the unit is off.
However, when you ask, %26quot;Does changing the thermostat cause the AC to work harder to maintain the temperature?%26quot;, again the answer is %26quot;Yes, it will be harder to maintain the desired temp.%26quot; This is where most people think that the catch up time causes the unit to run more and therefore use more electricity. When outside temps are changing, it is harder to illustrate my next point and make comparisons. So, first, consider the following.
Let%26#039;s say that the outside temp maintains an outside temp of 100 degrees F. Let%26#039;s also say that the AC in question is able to cool the house to 78 degrees F, and no lower, as long as the outside temp maintains 100 deg. F. If I keep my thermostat at 77 degrees, my AC will run 24/7, and will never turn off. If I raise my thermostat two or three degrees, my AC will enjoy SOME off time, and therefore save SOME electricity. As the thermostat setting is lowered, longer run times will be required of the AC to maintain the lower temp.
The above scenario is almost exactly the way it has been where I live. When the outside temp is approx. 95 to 100, the inside temp of my house would never get below 78 degrees. When my wife and I leave home in the morning, if we keep the thermostat at 72 degrees, the house would be at 78 when I got home in the early afternoon. At night when the outside temp lowers to 70 or 75 degrees, there obviously will be a point when the thermostat will be satisfied and turn off the AC. However the lower the thermostat setting, again the longer the AC will run. I thought that if I kept the AC on all day with the thermostat setting as low as 72, that%26#039;s the temp I would enjoy when I got home. My AC was never going to be able to reach that temp anyway.
Notice the following quote from Michael Bluejay%26#039;s website:
%26quot;It%26#039;s a myth that leaving the AC on while you%26#039;re away at work uses less energy than turning it on when you get home. Here%26#039;s why:
Heat goes to where it%26#039;s not. That%26#039;s why heat from outside goes into your cooler home. With the AC off, at some point your house will be so hot it can%26#039;t absorb any more heat. When you come home and turn the AC on, the AC removes all that heat.
But if the AC is on when you%26#039;re gone, then you%26#039;ve turned your house into a heat magnet. But keeping it artificially cool, there%26#039;s no limit to the amount of heat it can absorb. It can always absorb more heat. And your AC has to remove that heat constantly. Your AC kicks in and removes some of that heat, then the house is cooler so it sucks in more heat from outside, so your AC kicks in again and removes that heat, and so on.
This means that throughout the day, your house has absorbed way more than one houseful of heat. And your AC had to remove it all. By contrast, with the AC off all day, then it has to remove just one houseful of heat when you come home and turn it on.
Let%26#039;s say you leave the AC off, and your house absorbs 20k BTU%26#039;s of heat and then stops, because that%26#039;s all it can absorb.
Now let%26#039;s say that you have the AC running instead. The house absorbs 5k BTU%26#039;s of heat, so the AC kicks in and removes it. Then it absorbs another 5k BTU%26#039;s, and your AC kicks in and removes that. Repeat that process several times during the day.
The actual numbers will vary, and I haven%26#039;t tested this to see exactly how much the penalty for leaving the AC on during the day is, but there is zero question that running the AC all the time uses more energy than turning it on when you get home. This is not a gray area, it%26#039;s simple physics, and no person with any knowledge of this subject disputes it. Running the AC when you%26#039;re not home wastes energy, period.%26quot;
I hope this helps.
I always thought this would cause the AC to work harder to maintain the temperature, thus leading to a high electricity bill.|||The rule of thumb is that you can save about 3% on your heating bill for every degree that you set back your thermostat|||yes
we did a 2 yr study on changing the temp at night and turning it back up in the am, with a programmable thermostat,
we dropped the temp 5 deg at night, then back to 70 at day time
for 1 yr then we removed the programmable one and went to a standard thermostat, and left it at 69 deg 24/7
we saved over $1,000 a yr on the electric and fuel bill with the standard thermostat.|||Ultimately depends on the time of year. I%26#039;m assuming we%26#039;re talking about the summer because you said AC. If you turn the thermostat higher during the day (when its hotter), then the AC unit will work less often, thus saving you energy. At the night when it%26#039;s cooler, even though the AC thermostat has been lowered, the AC unit doesn%26#039;t have to compete with the sun%26#039;s direct heat which makes it cheaper to operate.|||Any time you set your thermostat down you save money. Anytime you raise you thermostat it is costing you money.
If you set it down 2 degs you are saving money. If you set it back up to the original setting you will be right back where you started if you hadn%26#039;t set it down. You save money during the time it is set down and you spend the same money during the time it is set back to the original setting. A net saving.
People so think otherwise have never sat down and done the math.|||adjusting your thermostat 2-3 will only save you money.
adjusting it 10+ is where your theory baffles many. but it still saves money...
the lower the thermostat the more money you will save no matter how much you change it.|||It is all relative . So it all averages out.|||when it goes lower it saves you money that is what you are suppose to do 5degrees is better|||When you ask, %26quot;Does constantly changing the thermostat....affect electricity usage?%26quot;, the answer is %26quot;Yes, it saves electricity usage.%26quot; Any time you turn something off, you save, and raising the AC thermostat setting will turn the AC off for longer periods of time. You cannot save more than when the unit is off.
However, when you ask, %26quot;Does changing the thermostat cause the AC to work harder to maintain the temperature?%26quot;, again the answer is %26quot;Yes, it will be harder to maintain the desired temp.%26quot; This is where most people think that the catch up time causes the unit to run more and therefore use more electricity. When outside temps are changing, it is harder to illustrate my next point and make comparisons. So, first, consider the following.
Let%26#039;s say that the outside temp maintains an outside temp of 100 degrees F. Let%26#039;s also say that the AC in question is able to cool the house to 78 degrees F, and no lower, as long as the outside temp maintains 100 deg. F. If I keep my thermostat at 77 degrees, my AC will run 24/7, and will never turn off. If I raise my thermostat two or three degrees, my AC will enjoy SOME off time, and therefore save SOME electricity. As the thermostat setting is lowered, longer run times will be required of the AC to maintain the lower temp.
The above scenario is almost exactly the way it has been where I live. When the outside temp is approx. 95 to 100, the inside temp of my house would never get below 78 degrees. When my wife and I leave home in the morning, if we keep the thermostat at 72 degrees, the house would be at 78 when I got home in the early afternoon. At night when the outside temp lowers to 70 or 75 degrees, there obviously will be a point when the thermostat will be satisfied and turn off the AC. However the lower the thermostat setting, again the longer the AC will run. I thought that if I kept the AC on all day with the thermostat setting as low as 72, that%26#039;s the temp I would enjoy when I got home. My AC was never going to be able to reach that temp anyway.
Notice the following quote from Michael Bluejay%26#039;s website:
%26quot;It%26#039;s a myth that leaving the AC on while you%26#039;re away at work uses less energy than turning it on when you get home. Here%26#039;s why:
Heat goes to where it%26#039;s not. That%26#039;s why heat from outside goes into your cooler home. With the AC off, at some point your house will be so hot it can%26#039;t absorb any more heat. When you come home and turn the AC on, the AC removes all that heat.
But if the AC is on when you%26#039;re gone, then you%26#039;ve turned your house into a heat magnet. But keeping it artificially cool, there%26#039;s no limit to the amount of heat it can absorb. It can always absorb more heat. And your AC has to remove that heat constantly. Your AC kicks in and removes some of that heat, then the house is cooler so it sucks in more heat from outside, so your AC kicks in again and removes that heat, and so on.
This means that throughout the day, your house has absorbed way more than one houseful of heat. And your AC had to remove it all. By contrast, with the AC off all day, then it has to remove just one houseful of heat when you come home and turn it on.
Let%26#039;s say you leave the AC off, and your house absorbs 20k BTU%26#039;s of heat and then stops, because that%26#039;s all it can absorb.
Now let%26#039;s say that you have the AC running instead. The house absorbs 5k BTU%26#039;s of heat, so the AC kicks in and removes it. Then it absorbs another 5k BTU%26#039;s, and your AC kicks in and removes that. Repeat that process several times during the day.
The actual numbers will vary, and I haven%26#039;t tested this to see exactly how much the penalty for leaving the AC on during the day is, but there is zero question that running the AC all the time uses more energy than turning it on when you get home. This is not a gray area, it%26#039;s simple physics, and no person with any knowledge of this subject disputes it. Running the AC when you%26#039;re not home wastes energy, period.%26quot;
I hope this helps.
Changing thermostat on 1999 Chevy Lumina?
My engine is overheating. I guess this is a common problem with my 1999 Chevy Lumina. I thought that I might be leaking coolant, but I am not. The coolant level is full. Multiple people have told me to try changing the thermostat. I have a friend that will do it in couple days, but I%26#039;m impatient and would like to make an attempt myself. Does anybody know where this thermostat is located? Is this a fairly simple job? Thank you.|||is that a 3.1 V-6? remove the air intake duct from your throttle body. next, remove the wire connectors from your throttle body and remove the throttle cables. remove the 2 - 13mm bolts securing the throttle body to the upper intake. after removal of the throttle body, the thermostat housing is just below it, right inside the exhaust crossover. there are 2 - 13mm bolts holding it in. the top one is easy with a box end wrench. do now remove the bottom bolt all the way, back it out enough to remove the therm housing. the housing is slotted so it slides over the bolt. install a new thermostat and top off the coolant. bleed the air out and you should be good to go
99 malibu v6 changing thermostat looking for details or website on how to remove the throttle body to acess it
or if there is an easier way i already have the airbox off i have the brace for the throttle off and need to know what else or what other nuts or things i can take off...or if u you know a website step by step how to do it....or if you know of a diagram of the throttle.....im trying to do this and kind of in the dark with this....|||Remove the throttle body, there is only four bolts that hold it on, it looks more difficult than it actually is, lemme guess you go the front bolt out and cant get the back one.|||what helped me remove the throttle body was the haynes automotive repair manual which i bought at auto zone, there inexpensive and got great instructions and illustrations. just take your time and dont loose the little screws from the throttle body. if you do have to remove the throttle body you might clean it with about two cans of throttle body cleaner. gd lk.
Changing thermostat on Fridge?
I need to replace my thermostat on my AMANA fridge. The freezer is not working at all. I got the part in the mail and need instructions as to how to do it. Please!!! SQD26VW is the model # of my fridge.|||The cold control or thermostat is usually just a two wire device and just acts as an automatic switch that brings on the compressor in response to temperature.If the compressor is working then the cold control is also working.If the frige section is working yet the freezer section is not then heavy frost or ice is the problem.It will have to have a hard defrost by emptying it,unplugging ,and leaving the doors open for a day.|||Did you bypass the thermostat to test it?In other words are you sure that is the problem.
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